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Hi friends
Can someone point me in the direction or give me a Simple explanation of settings and usage of ND/ pl filters on my phantom 4 pro.
I did go to you tube but these seem to only explain what the filters do and which to use in which situations.
I’m looking more for setting camera using filters when and how.
I hope I’m not Being too expectant but new
To video/ photography using the drone.
Thanks
[emoji41]
 
You can safely ignore them UNLESS you are trying to get a classic cinematographic look. In that instance you want to shoot with a shutter speed of about 2x the frame rate. In classic cinematography that's 24 FPS so you want to shoot a about 1/50 second. So you have only a few options to do that. Change the ISO, change the shutter speed or, on a few models, change the focal length. Or change the amount of light getting into the lens, hence the ND filters.

(Nice write up here: cinematic-look-frame-rate-shutter-speed)

If you don't care for that classic look you can shoot at whatever shutter speed you want. You can also create the blurry cinema look in post with any decent editor. Most people these days are used to 'video' looking video and so they aren't bothered by the faster shutter speed. Just depends on what you are trying to accomplish.
 
You can safely ignore them UNLESS you are trying to get a classic cinematographic look. In that instance you want to shoot with a shutter speed of about 2x the frame rate. In classic cinematography that's 24 FPS so you want to shoot a about 1/50 second. So you have only a few options to do that. Change the ISO, change the shutter speed or, on a few models, change the focal length. Or change the amount of light getting into the lens, hence the ND filters.

(Nice write up here: cinematic-look-frame-rate-shutter-speed)

If you don't care for that classic look you can shoot at whatever shutter speed you want. You can also create the blurry cinema look in post with any decent editor. Most people these days are used to 'video' looking video and so they aren't bothered by the faster shutter speed. Just depends on what you are trying to accomplish.

Thanks so much. Greatly appreciated.
Happy flying. [emoji41]
 
Exactly! For example, on a typical sunny day around here I put on my PolarPro 16ND, set the ISO to 100, shutter to 1/50, FPS to 24 and the iris to 4.5 (or thereabouts). Then I'm ready to go for some very nice cinematic 4K shots. ?
 
Exactly! For example, on a typical sunny day around here I put on my PolarPro 16ND, set the ISO to 100, shutter to 1/50, FPS to 24 and the iris to 4.5 (or thereabouts). Then I'm ready to go for some very nice cinematic 4K shots. ?
Thanks so much Jarrod. Great info simple.thanks
Happy Flying ?
 
You can safely ignore them UNLESS you are trying to get a classic cinematographic look. In that instance you want to shoot with a shutter speed of about 2x the frame rate. In classic cinematography that's 24 FPS so you want to shoot a about 1/50 second. So you have only a few options to do that. Change the ISO, change the shutter speed or, on a few models, change the focal length. Or change the amount of light getting into the lens, hence the ND filters.

(Nice write up here: cinematic-look-frame-rate-shutter-speed)

If you don't care for that classic look you can shoot at whatever shutter speed you want. You can also create the blurry cinema look in post with any decent editor. Most people these days are used to 'video' looking video and so they aren't bothered by the faster shutter speed. Just depends on what you are trying to accomplish.
9/10 times you will, as you have suggested, get video acceptable to most without ND filters. The problem remains however that until we see a DJI hobby drone with a true global read shutter ND filters have their place for more than getting a cinema like feel to the footage. They are often a necessity. Rolling shutter issues can and will be an issue.
 
Recently shopping for ND2, ND4 and ND8 filters, I noted that the filters for the P4A and P4P are different than for the P4. You might keep that in mind, if you are not already aware of that difference.
 
9/10 times you will, as you have suggested, get video acceptable to most without ND filters. The problem remains however that until we see a DJI hobby drone with a true global read shutter ND filters have their place for more than getting a cinema like feel to the footage. They are often a necessity. Rolling shutter issues can and will be an issue.

I agree that global shutter is preferable, but the reasons to use ND filters on the P4P is to reduce depth of field and get the iris into the "sweet spot" for the lens. I'm not aware that global shutter (verses electronic) is affected by ND.
 
Okay, we'll have to disagree on the DOF thing. While I wasn't referring to "creative DOF" but rather just allowing the deep distance to go a bit soft. I have shot enough with the P4P to know what the DOF is from practical use and with my settings it is definitely not "less than 5' to infinity".

Reducing the shutter speed is apparently the only way that ND filters might help with the jello effect. I always use a shutter speed of 1/50th for my 24fps shooting for motion blur and the natural look it gives moving objects. My main reason for NDs is to keep the iris open to the lens sweet spot (with 100 ISO & 1/50th shutter).
 
Too complicated for me. Got a
Simple explanation and assist earlier but thanks anyway.
Happy flying. [emoji41]
 
...What do you think the range of camera to subject distances might be for perceived sharpness of image for an 8.mm focal length lens illuminating a 1” sensor? ...
And the sensor isn’t really one inch. Only called that for historical reasons. ;)
 
I'll PM you with a link to a video I did on how to determine how many stops of ND you need. It's basic, but it might help get you started with NDs.
 
Neglected is any discussion of polarizing filters. They can be quite helpful in the right circumstances. Depending on the orientation of the aircraft, the sun, and anything that has any reflectivity they reduce or eliminate spectral reflection. The result can be deeper blue skies, an darker water, as well as greener leaves. To get the best effect, you rotate the filter until the aforementioned improvements are maximized. You can get some approximation of the effect by looking through it and rotating the filter. Obviously it is impossible to change in flight, but the worst that happens is nothing. If you get lucky, your image looks lots better. I almost always fly with one.

To forestall all that will take issue, it cannot be duplicated in post processing. You can control and enhance blue Skys easily enough, but eliminating spectral reflection which helps with leaves, water, and other shiny or semi-shiny surfaces cannot.
 
This ap doesn’t help at all with setting up the polarizing filter. All it helps with is setting the exposure. Rotating the physical filter is the only thing that influences the polarizing effect.
 
I have filters for both my P3S and P3P. Getting the right filter is always a big question mark. Plus they are all circular polarizers. But when I get it right, they really make a difference especially after adding a LUT in post-production.
 

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