After you get that beautiful bean footage EDIT!!!!

Pretty clear piece of video Recoveryone AND good to see you mowed the lawn before the flight.
 
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Really nice tutorial and technique.
Thanks for this. I have not used Litchi yet for my phantom 4 pro V2 but I do want to try it.
I have a couple of questions.
I do more still work than video- but need to expand my vid work.

-You talk about the range of your shutter speeds being over 1/640 at the second. Any reason you would not want to use an ND filter to get you closer to 1/120 or 1/60 second for 60 or 30fps?

-Seems like the light there was pretty even, were you on manual exposure because it seemed like there weren’t any abrupt transitions, or do you like using auto? I rarely use auto with the P4P because it can change the exposure to much as you tell swing into view of darker or lighter subjects.

- when Litchi takes over for a preplanned mission with your points of interest, are you able to override the angle of the camera as you’re flying or do you have to allow the camera to go exactly where the point of interest tells it? Make slight adjustments if you feel it’s pointing too low? Or will it just move back once you let off the wheel?

-when planning the mission on the computer does Litchi give you any indication of your angle of view that the camera sees so you can plan how close in or far back you want to pull away from your point of interest?
Is there somewhere to plug into the planning mission the angle of view of the camera? I.e. the 24 mm equivalent of the P4p lens?

-again thinking of what the camera is seeing as you’re passing a point of interest or rotating do you enter in the height of the POI so the camera will center itself at that particular height?
Thinking about when you were coming around the grain silo if I wanted it to tip up slightly to make sure the top of the silo was always in view would I be able to adjust that in-flight or you have to do that in the pre-plan?
 
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Really nice tutorial and technique.
Thanks for this. I have not used Litchi yet for my phantom 4 pro V2 but I do want to try it.
I have a couple of questions.
I do more still work than video- but need to expand my vid work.

-You talk about the range of your shutter speeds being over 1/640 at the second. Any reason you would not want to use an ND filter to get you closer to 1/120 or 1/60 second for 60 or 30fps?

-Seems like the light there was pretty even, were you on manual exposure because it seemed like there weren’t any abrupt transitions, or do you like using auto? I rarely use auto with the P4P because it can change the exposure to much as you tell swing into view of darker or lighter subjects.

- when Litchi takes over for a preplanned mission with your points of interest, are you able to override the angle of the camera as you’re flying or do you have to allow the camera to go exactly where the point of interest tells it? Make slight adjustments if you feel it’s pointing too low? Or will it just move back once you let off the wheel?

-when planning the mission on the computer does Litchi give you any indication of your angle of view that the camera sees so you can plan how close in or far back you want to pull away from your point of interest?
Is there somewhere to plug into the planning mission the angle of view of the camera? I.e. the 24 mm equivalent of the P4p lens?

-again thinking of what the camera is seeing as you’re passing a point of interest or rotating do you enter in the height of the POI so the camera will center itself at that particular height?
Thinking about when you were coming around the grain silo if I wanted it to tip up slightly to make sure the top of the silo was always in view would I be able to adjust that in-flight or you have to do that in the pre-plan?
WoW, a lot to digest,
1. the reason for the shutter information was to let people know that you can get good footage at a number of settings. Using litchi in this type of flight Waypoint with POI's I have found that it is better to let the software adjust the shutter (automatically) as the drone is moving is different directions into the light and away. The human eye couldn't adjust the shutter fast enough to keep the picture fluid.

2. You can have manual control of the gimbal if you desire or set it to custom, which gives you the smooth panning motion from one waypoint to another

3. Using the Virtual litchi program allows you to see how your flight will take place before hand. This is where you would make the adjustments to the flight at the planning stage.

4.I have flown many times using the Go4 app and the human touch (on the gimbal wheel) is never consistent enough. I did this flight with both my P4P and M2P, the P4P just happen to catch a train coming through. I also notice over the years that the gimbal on the P4P interact more smoothly than the gimbal on the M2P.

To point out a section of the video, When the drone fly's over the passing train, The gimbal is pointing roughly 90 degrees while rotating 280 degrees at certain points flying backwards while the gimbal is transistioning back to 100 degree angle. Most of us can't handle 2d movement let alone 3d/4d action all in a signal action.

5. ND filters, I have used ND (mainly NDPL) on most of the drones I've owned, but what I have found about the P4P, less is more. I use NDPL on my M2P a lot and my old MP and even my Phantom 3 Pro, but something about the P4P I don't seem to need one.
 
Thanks for the detailed response. Very helpful.
And- you do have good reason then to use auto.
And youre right on the smooth panning on the P4P - im terrible at manual POI even in a simple rotation - your moves on this video were smooth as silk in complex maneuvers.
I want to try this.

I was using NDPL’s for a while, but was finding that as I rotated through a scene I’d get uneven skies once I wasn’t at 90° to the sun so lately I’ve been using straight PolarPro NDs and it’s better for video unless I’m staying on the same path as when I set the polarizer before takeoff.
WoW, a lot to digest,
1. the reason for the shutter information was to let people know that you can get good footage at a number of settings. Using litchi in this type of flight Waypoint with POI's I have found that it is better to let the software adjust the shutter (automatically) as the drone is moving is different directions into the light and away. The human eye couldn't adjust the shutter fast enough to keep the picture fluid.

2. You can have manual control of the gimbal if you desire or set it to custom, which gives you the smooth panning motion from one waypoint to another

3. Using the Virtual litchi program allows you to see how your flight will take place before hand. This is where you would make the adjustments to the flight at the planning stage.

4.I have flown many times using the Go4 app and the human touch (on the gimbal wheel) is never consistent enough. I did this flight with both my P4P and M2P, the P4P just happen to catch a train coming through. I also notice over the years that the gimbal on the P4P interact more smoothly than the gimbal on the M2P.

To point out a section of the video, When the drone fly's over the passing train, The gimbal is pointing roughly 90 degrees while rotating 280 degrees at certain points flying backwards while the gimbal is transistioning back to 100 degree angle. Most of us can't handle 2d movement let alone 3d/4d action all in a signal action.

5. ND filters, I have used ND (mainly NDPL) on most of the drones I've owned, but what I have found about the P4P, less is more. I use NDPL on my M2P a lot and my old MP and even my Phantom 3 Pro, but something about the P4P I don't seem to need one.
 
-You talk about the range of your shutter speeds being over 1/640 at the second. Any reason you would not want to use an ND filter to get you closer to 1/120 or 1/60 second for 60 or 30fps?
Or to turn that around .... any reason you would want to use an ND filter to get you closer to 1/120 or 1/60 second for 60 or 30fps?
As demonstrated by the video, the concept of using ND filters to keep the shutter speed low is unnecessary and overhyped.
The myth is accepted and spread by people who have never tried shooting without to see what (if any) difference it makes.
 
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Or to turn that around .... any reason you would want to use an ND filter to get you closer to 1/120 or 1/60 second for 60 or 30fps?
As demonstrated by the video, the concept of using ND filters to keep the shutter speed low is unnecessary and overhyped.
The myth is accepted and spread by people who have never tried shooting without to see what (if any) difference it makes.
Point taken. Testing to follow!
Thx again
 
Or to turn that around .... any reason you would want to use an ND filter to get you closer to 1/120 or 1/60 second for 60 or 30fps?
As demonstrated by the video, the concept of using ND filters to keep the shutter speed low is unnecessary and overhyped.
The myth is accepted and spread by people who have never tried shooting without to see what (if any) difference it makes.
Revisiting an old thread. And to add to this subject what I'm finding is if you are at height or at least not flying close to say the ground (close is a relative term...) or closely past trees,buildings, etc, then having the "correct" shutter speed - 2x Frame rate- doesn't matter much.
But if you are flying lower or near objects, ground, buildings etc it will make it look more cinematic with some blurring of the close objects. Obviously its not a hard and fast rule, just a creative choice.
 
Revisiting an old thread. And to add to this subject what I'm finding is if you are at height or at least not flying close to say the ground (close is a relative term...) or closely past trees,buildings, etc, then having the "correct" shutter speed - 2x Frame rate- doesn't matter much.
But if you are flying lower or near objects, ground, buildings etc it will make it look more cinematic with some blurring of the close objects. Obviously its not a hard and fast rule, just a creative choice.
Bingo
 

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