Recent content by thegeekunderground

Considering that genuine DJI Phantom 3 batteries are no longer produced (I think, but somebody correct me if I’m wrong), if they’re new-in-box they likely have zero charge left in them. Because of that, I would open and charge them up.

The different in P3 and P4 cracking frequencies are due to arm design and structure. While there could also be slight composition differences in the material, the shells are both still plastic. Definitely not metal of any kind, as weight and magnetic inference issues would be introduced.

Also, I forgot to mention that if you do use a utility or exactly knife to cut the foam, be prepared for it to come off in clusters. That's why I went with the heat method.

Based on your photo, I suspect that the profile of my prop guards is wider than your reinforcement plates, and I'm not exactly sure how much I ended up taking off. Your best bet may be to set the Phantom down in the foam as far as it will go, then draw a line on the foam around the edge of your...

Yes, I had to do this with my P3P backpack case with foam insert. I used a heat knife to make it as clean as possible.

For sale I am offering this bundle of extra Phantom 3 accessories left over from before I upgraded to a M2P. Included are: Qty 4 OEM Phantom 3 standard/advanced/pro batteries. Charge counts of 15, 23, 42, and 55 cycles. Always stored at 50-75% charge (3rd light blinking) Qty 1 OEM 100w...

I was once in the same boat myself, having moved from a P3P to a M2P. There is definitely still a special place in my heard for the controls and response when flying the Phantom series. Perhaps someday in the future I'll grab a P4P for cheap (years from now) like I did with my P3P two years ago.

THIS. Definitely make sure not to obstruct the motors. I, too, had stress cracks on my P3P, which I actually think was because the previous owner had installed a set of removable prop guards. Seems the additional weight and stress from the guards could have exacerbated cracking.

This is one of the reasons why I am, at least temporarily, getting out of the UAS hobby. That, plus raising a baby requires time and money. Perhaps once all the FAA dust settles, and my family has a more stable financial situation, I will get back into it.

I’ll also add that, in the off-chance that a local resident or law enforcement offer isn’t familiar with the law (an often occurrence), it can be helpful to have a printed copy of the relevant laws and ordinances with you when flying in areas that may not be obviously appropriate.

This is absolutely correct, and I remember thinking the same thing myself when I first got my P3P.

As others have said, cellular-enabled devices will have an internal GPS (functional without a paid data plan), so the flight app you’re using can pinpoint your personal location on a map. This may be helpful for changing the home point or utilizing a GPS-based follow-me command. Cellular...

Everything going well? I’m in the opposite boat as you, having just sold my M2P, and working on clearing out my extra P3P and M2P gear. I miss the hobby already. [emoji17] Alas, having a baby is not cheap, and leaves little time for extracurriculars. But I wouldn’t trade it for the world.

I would say this depends on when you’re next going to fly. To start, I always wait half a day before recharging just to ensure the batteries have completely cooled. If it’s going to be weeks until a next flight, I would charge them back up to the 50-75% range (when the third light is flashing)...

I can’t speak to actual long exposures, but if you’re trying to shoot nighttime cityscapes, you should try shooting raw photos then bringing out the lights using software such as Lightroom. Of course, you wouldn’t get light trails from vehicles with this method, but you should be able to get a...