Recent content by Chef Vortivask

So I decided just to try to repair the trace that was cut instead of using wire. I had to scrape away some more of the mask to expose more copper before repairing it with solder, and it seems to have done the trick. The battery is now working as expected. I think you were right about there being...

I have 34 AWG magnet wire. Will that work for the connection between TP15 and SDA? I'm pretty sure it will, but I like to double check since certain gauges are needed for specific uses.

I decided to see what would happen if I powered on the battery in the drone. After putting it in and powering on, I checked for continuity between TP15 and GND, and surprisingly, there was no continuity. I turned it off and took it out, checked again, and then there was continuity. It seems like...

I had to read that a couple of times before I understood what you were saying. So if there's a PNP transistor, it could be shorting TX to GND to prevent a floating signal when off, but then it opens or closes to break the short to GND when on. That makes sense so I went and checked continuity...

Ok so I believe I can say with certainty that SDA is the problem here. I found out that TP15 and the leg of the component are also shorted to GND. I thought that was odd since following the via to that location, I thought it for sure belonged to SDA. I hadn't really noticed this before, but...

Just want to clarify that my probes are fine. I was checking the continuity as I was in the process of leaving that morning, so it wasn't very precise. So I've taken some time to check continuity between various points, and I'd like to share what I've found. First off is that I'm not getting...

I'm unsure of the best way to check the UART traces. I very briefly this morning tried testing continuity from the SDA and SCL contacts of the connector that goes to the drone to the pins on the uC, and I was able to get continuity for one of them (unfortunately, I can't remember which one)...

It looks like we're on the same page and thinking the same thing. I've looked at the board and couldn't see any shorts or anything else of concern like broken wires. I've gone over the Github page and if I'm not mistaken, the UART traces responsible for data are SCL and SDA? I'm attaching a...

That makes sense from what we've seen thus far. It looks like the BMS is fine, but for some reason, the uC isn't communicating properly with the drone. The possibility was brought up earlier that I could've fried something related to the uC when I spot welded the cells. I find that highly...

Ok so I went ahead and did what I believe was a reset of the uC following the discussion in this post. What I did was take some wire and just touched one end to the GND pad and the other end to the RST pad. After a few seconds the green lights came on which I took to mean that the reset was...

I'll give that one a shot. Out of curiosity though, how did you come to that conclusion? I interpret "RST" to mean "reset", but I'm not sure what the "M" stands for. I thought it could be for "micro", but I wasn't positive.

Awesome! So I never reset the uC, just the BMS. I think I should reset the uC because even though it appears to be working, maybe there's some sort of glitch that's keeping it from communicating with the drone. I don't mean to highjack this post, but since we're on the topic of resetting the...

That's very possible since I'm not an expert in these sorts of things. If I'm understanding what the Github page is showing correctly, there is the BMS and microcontroller. The microcontroller is what is responsible for communicating with the BMS and relaying that information to the lights and I...

So I'm encountering my own problem that may have a similar cause to yours. I'm curious as to whether or not you used the Battery Killer software to also reset the chip. What I would do with my batteries that I replaced the cells for is unseal them, clear PF, reset chip, and then seal them. I...

Ah so the u was for "micro". That makes sense now. I actually just was on that Github page so see if I could figure out what it was. Yes the battery button seems to be working fine. It lets me turn the battery on, shows charge, and even lets me see the battery health.