WIP Phantom 2 PCBs, Schematics and Info

Hey all, I just want to know what the ohm rating of R11 is, as I assume 11.5 mega or milliohm is incorrect. I blew this when testing transmitter voltage with a multimeter that was accidentally left plugged in to the ammeter configuration, but luckily capacitor C6 is intact and the zenmuse power circuit (shares a common ground with this blown circuit) is fully functional. I'm not sure why this one blown resistor gives me the flashing yellow and red lights, but I was hoping to fix it by soldering in a new resistor. If anyone has any tips (I'm a high schooler but have a somewhat decent understanding of circuits) or knows why this won't work, please help. Sorry to resurrect and old thread.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hey all, I just want to know what the ohm rating of R11 is, as I assume 11.5 mega or milliohm is incorrect. I blew this when testing transmitter voltage with a multimeter that was accidentally left plugged in to the ammeter configuration, but luckily capacitor C6 is intact and the zenmuse power circuit (shares a common ground with this blown circuit) is fully functional. I'm not sure why this one blown resistor gives me the flashing yellow and red lights, but I was hoping to fix it by soldering in a new resistor. If anyone has any tips (I'm a high schooler but have a somewhat decent understanding of circuits) or knows why this won't work, please help. Sorry to resurrect and old thread.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I just saw sagi's post and realized I blew the same inductor, L2, not R11 as I had thought. I see cr4wler soldered in a new L2 inductor, and want to know if this fixes the yellow and red lights? I would rather pay $2.50 for 1uH inductors and some time soldering than pay $300 for a new phantom 2...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
So I just saw sagi's post and realized I blew the same inductor, L2, not R11 as I had thought. I see cr4wler soldered in a new L2 inductor, and want to know if this fixes the yellow and red lights? I would rather pay $2.50 for 1uH inductors and some time soldering than pay $300 for a new phantom 2...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I bypassed this L2 inductor, and for anyone having issues in the future, yes this seemed to fix the issue. I have new inductors (0805 size, 1uH) on the way. Just solder it in, or go the dangerous route and solder across the leads where the previously burned inductor was, and you should be more or less good to go until you pull too much current again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
the inductor is like a little noise filter, good in the long haul but if it was MY machine, I would jumper around it and see if the issues are solved first. In my opinion the 1uh is not required for a test of what you need tested.
 
I will be acquiring a Phantom 2 vision plus that doesn't work, i wanted to check that these schematics are the same on all 3 phantom 2's including the vision plus, i am guessing that its just the camera/gimble that's different.

btw great work and thanks to RDCF550 for doing this.
 
Yup.
 
Hi All

I am about to start working on a phantom racer/sleeper. A SP Racing F3 Controller in a phantom shell. I originally intended to use p2 pcb just as a physical support for a matek pdb but I am now looking into using it as proper power distribution for the whole thing.

1) I can see there is +5V in schematics but where would be the best spot on the board to connect to it. Any idea what kind of current will it support? I need about 1.5A to 2A

2) Is there a +12V anywhere on the board?

3) My motor esc combo will use about 15A each, will this board be able to support it as pdb?

4) I'm intending to use it with 3S battery, but would like to try 4S, is it even possible if using this board as pdb?
 
hi.
i was asking about connecting my new esc for quadcopter before. some of you were replaing to me. but i did not have time do it. i just started do it now but im not sure if i understand correctly. here is link for forum:
WIP Phantom 2 PCBs, Schematics and Info
can you check my attached pic if is it correct please? i dont want burn something. i need change one side of phantom esc connector with connector for naza.
thank you very much for your time
samuel

img_8729-jpg.75422
 
Can't see your pics.

Also I've asked earlier in this thread if the mainboard can be utilized as PDB. Yes it can to a degree.

To view this content we will need your consent to set third party cookies.
For more detailed information, see our cookies page.
 
i can see it. i will try again. sorry
on left is naza connector on right dji
 

Attachments

  • IMG_8729-2.JPG
    IMG_8729-2.JPG
    1.4 MB · Views: 548
Nothing conclusive yet. I removed U5 and U6 and added L1... and still short between 5V and GND...I am desperately searching for the 5V path to see if I can isolate the issue and will start removing all the capacitors but this does not look cool...U5 was difficult to remove even with soldering tweezers and chipquik. I even screwed up one pad but I am used to repair that... The problem now is that U5 and U6 will probably cost me 5$ each... so I might start thinking about a new board...

Any suggestion?View attachment 41058 View attachment 41059
Please show me, how to desolderring U6?
I using solder gun 390 degree and hot air 440 degree, but can't.
Please help.
Reed.
1.jpg
 
NOTE: None of these are official schematics, they are only as accurate as I can make them and subject to change without notice

So far I've done the..

P330CB-H3-2D V2, Central Board
WM 301 BLDC V2, ESC (NOTE: The V2.0 ESC is the same Hardware, but has different Firmware on it for the new Motors)

These are the LoRes versions, attached are the HiRes schematics I've made up.

Central Board


ESC



Scans of the boards I've done so far.

CENTRAL BOARD Note: There are no components on the bottom side, so no bottom scan.


CENTRAL BOARD NO COMPONENTS


CENTRAL BOARD DESIGNATORS


CENTRAL BOARD STRIPPED 50% overlay



CONNECTORS

SMB 2 pin, COMP 5 pin, CAM 6 pin, ZENMUSE 8 pin - Molex PicoBlade 51021

ESC 4 pin, CAN 4 pin, EXP 6 pin - JST GHR-xxV-S Series

CAN Connectors (Accessories) - Molex Micro-Fit 3.0 43640 - 43645

________________________________________________________________________________________________

ESC NO COMPONENTS TOP


ESC NO COMPONENTS BOTTOM


ESC DESIGNATORS TOP


ESC DESIGNATORS TOP


ESC TOP STRIPPED 50% overlay


ESC BOTTOM STRIPPED 50% overlay


There are 6 connections to the ESC board from the main board in the P2. Two of them are for power.

V = Battery Voltage
G = Ground

Then a 4 pin connector.

1 - Orange = 1kHz
2 - Brown = Ground
3 - Orange = Motor control from Flight Controller, 400Hz
4 - Orange = Motor control from Flight Controller, 400Hz

Note pins 3 and 4 are connected together on both the ESC and main boards, so a 3 pin connector could have been used there, so not sure why that was done exactly.

The Motor is controlled by the Duty Cycle of the 400Hz signal, the same for how any Digital Servo uses that information for it's position. These are roughly the measured Duty Cycles for Off, On and Full speed.

37% Duty = Motor Off
47% Duty = Motor On (spooled up, idle)
71% Duty = Motor at full speed

The more interesting thing here is the 1kHz wire. It's Duty Cycle is what controls the LEDs on the ESC board.

10% = Off
20% = Red
30% = Green
40% = Yellow/Orange (Red + Green)
50% = Off
60% = LEDs go along with motor signal, i.e. the front LEDs flashing with start up sound (Motor on = LED on, Motor off = LED off)
70% = Off
80% = Off
90% = Off
100% = Off

So combining those Duty Cycles in various orders and time frames will give you the different LED flashing that goes on.

ESC beeps. (NOTE: The Motor makes the sounds you hear, so no motor or badly damaged one connected to the ESC means no sounds)

Eight beeps from a Low to Hi in a row (1.2.3.4.5.6.7.8...) followed by four single beeps (8..8..8..8) Means a normal start up (NOTE: On the V2.0 ESC the four single beeps do not happen, only the (1.2.3.4.5.6.7.8...) are heard for that version of ESC.

One quick repeating beep (8...8....8....) Means there is no 400Hz signal from the FC

Two quick repeating beeps (8 8..8 8..8 8..) Means the Voltage on the V pad is 5.9v or less.

Hi @RDCF550, have you finished the GPS portion of the PCB?
 

Recent Posts

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
143,031
Messages
1,467,092
Members
104,900
Latest member
ROMzombi