WIP Phantom 2 PCBs, Schematics and Info

RDCF550 · Oct 25, 2014

NOTE: None of these are official schematics, they are only as accurate as I can make them and subject to change without notice

So far I've done the..

P330CB-H3-2D V2, Central Board
WM 301 BLDC V2, ESC (NOTE: The V2.0 ESC is the same Hardware, but has different Firmware on it for the new Motors)

These are the LoRes versions, attached are the HiRes schematics I've made up.

Central Board

ESC

Scans of the boards I've done so far.

CENTRAL BOARD Note: There are no components on the bottom side, so no bottom scan.

CENTRAL BOARD NO COMPONENTS

CENTRAL BOARD DESIGNATORS

CENTRAL BOARD STRIPPED 50% overlay

CONNECTORS

SMB 2 pin, COMP 5 pin, CAM 6 pin, ZENMUSE 8 pin - Molex PicoBlade 51021

ESC 4 pin, CAN 4 pin, EXP 6 pin - JST GHR-xxV-S Series

CAN Connectors (Accessories) - Molex Micro-Fit 3.0 43640 - 43645

________________________________________________________________________________________________

ESC NO COMPONENTS TOP

ESC NO COMPONENTS BOTTOM

ESC DESIGNATORS TOP

ESC TOP STRIPPED 50% overlay

ESC BOTTOM STRIPPED 50% overlay

There are 6 connections to the ESC board from the main board in the P2. Two of them are for power.

V = Battery Voltage
G = Ground

Then a 4 pin connector.

1 - Orange = 1kHz
2 - Brown = Ground
3 - Orange = Motor control from Flight Controller, 400Hz
4 - Orange = Motor control from Flight Controller, 400Hz

Note pins 3 and 4 are connected together on both the ESC and main boards, so a 3 pin connector could have been used there, so not sure why that was done exactly.

The Motor is controlled by the Duty Cycle of the 400Hz signal, the same for how any Digital Servo uses that information for it's position. These are roughly the measured Duty Cycles for Off, On and Full speed.

37% Duty = Motor Off
47% Duty = Motor On (spooled up, idle)
71% Duty = Motor at full speed

The more interesting thing here is the 1kHz wire. It's Duty Cycle is what controls the LEDs on the ESC board.

10% = Off
20% = Red
30% = Green
40% = Yellow/Orange (Red + Green)
50% = Off
60% = LEDs go along with motor signal, i.e. the front LEDs flashing with start up sound (Motor on = LED on, Motor off = LED off)
70% = Off
80% = Off
90% = Off
100% = Off

So combining those Duty Cycles in various orders and time frames will give you the different LED flashing that goes on.

ESC beeps. (NOTE: The Motor makes the sounds you hear, so no motor or badly damaged one connected to the ESC means no sounds)

Eight beeps from a Low to Hi in a row (1.2.3.4.5.6.7.8...) followed by four single beeps (8..8..8..8) Means a normal start up (NOTE: On the V2.0 ESC the four single beeps do not happen, only the (1.2.3.4.5.6.7.8...) are heard for that version of ESC.

One quick repeating beep (8...8....8....) Means there is no 400Hz signal from the FC

Two quick repeating beeps (8 8..8 8..8 8..) Means the Voltage on the V pad is 5.9v or less.

PhantomFanatic · Dec 29, 2014

Yes, it does. Thank you. The text looks like it is in another language though or the resolution is low. But, it helps!

RDCF550 · Dec 29, 2014

It's already stated these are the LoRes pics posted. The text is perfectly fine in the attached schematic files.

J.James · Dec 29, 2014

wow nice work on this.

jarance · Jan 21, 2015

Thank you for the schematic. It have been really helpful for me to troubleshoot the ESC and Main Motherboard.

I hope with your permission I can use your schematic for some of my LED light modification. cheers

PhantomFanatic · Jan 21, 2015

That was a lot of work! Thank you as I've been wanting schematics.

RDCF550 · Jan 21, 2015

Welcome all.

@ jarance - As long as they are not used for profit and credit is given where they came from feel free to do whatever you like with them.

@ PahntomFanatic - Honestly, even with them being multi-layer boards they weren't as much work as some other things I've torn down to get a schematic for. The H3-3D is on my hit list as well, but there really isn't much going on there past a 3 axis gyro and a huge DSC with a closed CAN for the comms to the motors that have their own MCU/DSC.

jarance · Jan 21, 2015

Thanks again RDCF550.

Hoe you dont mind me asking some question. For the ESC, Q1 dual transistors, what is the component list for item?

I try to look at my board but there is no inscription or marking on it. I need to know the maximum current it can drive for the load.

I am planning to wire 3 SMD LED (Orange) color in parallel to it. SMD Spec is 2.2VDC at 20 mA.

CityZen · Jan 21, 2015

The part on my Phantom is marked (vertical line) R33.

The typical dual-NPN 6-pin SMD part like this seems to have a max current of around 100mA (200mA peak).

RDCF550 · Jan 21, 2015

@ CityZen - R33 is U2, a 3.3v Regulator. Q1 is an EMH10, dual NPN Digital Transistor.

@ jarance - It's best to not go by any components max value as that's only what it can do for a short time, look at the continuous rating instead. That Transistor is rated around 100mA and is really doing about all it should be driving the LEDs it's already connected to. You don't want to put an additional load of that size on it.

If your LEDs are rated at 20mA per, that's a 60mA load the way you have them in parallel there and driving just them alone would be about all that should be done with Q1 there. You'd be better off using a 2N3904 or anything similar to drive your array there and just use the same Base signal to turn it on/off.

Not sure how you designed that array, but that 680ohm is only going to get you 10mA per LED and they will not be as bright as they could be. If you want the full 20mA per LED, you'd need to use a 120ohm at 1W the way you have it designed with a single Resistor there, and that's not very efficient. You'd be better off with a single 330ohm 1/4W per string of 3 LEDs there for the full 20mA per. There are several ways this could be wired up as well as powered, this is just one way to go about it given those specs.

CityZen · Jan 21, 2015

RDCF550 said:
@ CityZen - R33 is U2, a 3.3v Regulator. Q1 is an EMH10, dual NPN Digital Transistor.

Ah, indeed. I knew Q1 was near the corner, but I was looking on the wrong side of the screw hole (with the motor wires covering Q1).

jarance · Jan 21, 2015

Thank for the circuit. Sorry the resistor I was using is 68 Ohms and not 680 Ohms. The current drawn is about 40mA which is less than than the permissible of 100mA max.
Basically, I do not need bright illumination but to show that the Red LED is flashing during warming up and satellite locked. It was a bit of a hassle to lift the quad to see the bottom of the light to check for satellite status (yes can use FPV but at the moment my quad is having some issue). Have wired it up and it seem to work. I will not take off until the flashing light stopped.

Here is a shot of the flashing light.
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8KvzA9bGec[/youtube]

http://youtu.be/h8KvzA9bGec

RDCF550 said:
@ CityZen - R33 is U2, a 3.3v Regulator. Q1 is an EMH10, dual NPN Digital Transistor.

@ jarance - It's best to not go by any components max value as that's only what it can do for a short time, look at the continuous rating instead. That Transistor is rated around 100mA and is really doing about all it should be driving the LEDs it's already connected to. You don't want to put an additional load of that size on it.

If your LEDs are rated at 20mA per, that's a 60mA load the way you have them in parallel there and driving just them alone would be about all that should be done with Q1 there. You'd be better off using a 2N3904 or anything similar to drive your array there and just use the same Base signal to turn it on/off.

Not sure how you designed that array, but that 680ohm is only going to get you 10mA per LED and they will not be as bright as they could be. If you want the full 20mA per LED, you'd need to use a 120ohm at 1W the way you have it designed with a single Resistor there, and that's not very efficient. You'd be better off with a single 330ohm 1/4W per string of 3 LEDs there for the full 20mA per. There are several ways this could be wired up as well as powered, this is just one way to go about it given those specs.

yorlik · May 14, 2015

Ron,

GREAT info! Thank you!

I noticed on your photobucket you dug into the layout and communications of the dji P2 battery too. Did you ever make a schematic of the two pcbs? It would be great to see that!

Thanks again.

sagi · Jul 30, 2015

hi ,
i am trying to understand what is the part i burned (attached pic).
the scheme you attached is to small for me can you help out ?

N017RW · Jul 30, 2015

It is an inductor (coil) designated as L2 and is 1.0 microHenry.
Next to it is C6, a 10.0 microFarad capacitor.

sagi · Jul 30, 2015

thx a lot

yorlik · Jul 30, 2015

and in case you want to know WHY it burned up, it is likely either your camera gimbal got stuck and could not move but was told to move (you crash and it sat turned on for 30 minutes until you found it?) or it was oscillating (shaking typically because gain was fiddled with in assistant and set too high.

sagi · Jul 30, 2015

my gimbal was disconnected when i turned the phantom on (because i didn't have gopro on it).
could that be the reason ? maybe the disconnected cable touch something ?

N017RW · Jul 30, 2015

As yorlik has eluded too, the failure mode is excessive current. So anything which leads to excessive current, continuous or pulse, will destroy the coil.