Upgrade antenna on phantom 3 drone (bird-side upgrade)

[Palmerf]

I'm looking to upgrade the antenna's on the phantom 3a drone itself. The stock antenna's are just the little linear polarized ones built into the legs. I would ideally like to replace the stock antennas with something like Mad Mushrooms.

Anybody done this kind of mod? How do you access & replace the stock antenna? What kinda adapters would I need?

I've already done the FPVLR advanced upgrade. I would just like to mod the drone itself now. I think putting RHCP antenna's on the drone would work better with the RHCP FPVLR upgrade.

 

[SteveMann]

Unless you also replace the antenna on your R/C controller (which is technically illegal) changing to a circular polarized antenna at the bird end is less than useless.

 

[Palmerf]

Unless you also replace the antenna on your R/C controller (which is technically illegal) changing to a circular polarized antenna at the bird end is less than useless.

Steve, I already have done the FPVLR mod to the remote. So my remote now sends a RHCP signal.

 

[SteveMann]

Steve, I already have done the FPVLR mod to the remote. So my remote now sends a RHCP signal.

Oops, missed that.

Here's the problem you may run into. I don't have a P3 but I did replace the antenna on my P2 controller with this SMA Female to IPX U.FL 1.13 Center Antenna Cable for WIFI/GSM/3G/GPS 20cm.
The P3 antennas have the same IPX connectors, so you could theoretically replace the antennas with two of these cables, then you have a connection for other external antennas.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-SMA-Fe...64335a9&pid=100338&rk=1&rkt=6&sd=131631404846
The problem is that to comply with the FCC regulation that any part-15 transmitting antenna must be permanent, DJI puts a generous amount of silicone caulk on the connector.

 

[RF Guy]

You are taking a big risk here....as you have no way of knowing the SWR on the Phantom 3 using an egg-beater. (actually two of four of them since the existing antenna is a phased array)
I guarantee you'll be putting a different "load" on the P3P's transmitter.... and the 4-element stand antenna is really well executed. Believe me, they did great engineering on it. Because the P3P is aloft and moving through space, it's signal will be rotating polarity already. Even if you matched the polarization of the FPVLR (RHCP), your improvement would only be marginally better. AND, the egg-beaters have NO gain. I'm sure the 4-element stand antenna exhibits gain. Circular polarization was created to negate tumble drop-out in sat reception. If you use a no-gain RHCP antenna on the P3P, I'll bet your signal drop-outs will be less and your range will decrease. Also, if the match (SWR) on the P3P's transmitter to the egg-beater isn't perfect, the P3P will decrease power in order to protect itself. Not good. Conclusion: Leave the P3P alone.

 

[droneshop]

There is no silicone on the P3P antennas, they are mounted under the vision module on the receiver board, easy to disconnect. You are correct in the connector type.

Oops, missed that.

Here's the problem you may run into. I don't have a P3 but I did replace the antenna on my P2 controller with this SMA Female to IPX U.FL 1.13 Center Antenna Cable for WIFI/GSM/3G/GPS 20cm.
The P3 antennas have the same IPX connectors, so you could theoretically replace the antennas with two of these cables, then you have a connection for other external antennas.
The problem is that to comply with the FCC regulation that any part-15 transmitting antenna must be permanent, DJI puts a generous amount of silicone caulk on the connector.

 

[SteveMann]

You are taking a big risk here....as you have no way of knowing the SWR on the Phantom 3 using an egg-beater. (actually two of four of them since the existing antenna is a phased array)
I guarantee you'll be putting a different "load" on the P3P's transmitter.... and the 4-element stand antenna is really well executed. Believe me, they did great engineering on it. Because the P3P is aloft and moving through space, it's signal will be rotating polarity already. Even if you matched the polarization of the FPVLR (RHCP), your improvement would only be marginally better. AND, the egg-beaters have NO gain. I'm sure the 4-element stand antenna exhibits gain. Circular polarization was created to negate tumble drop-out in sat reception. If you use a no-gain RHCP antenna on the P3P, I'll bet your signal drop-outs will be less and your range will decrease. Also, if the match (SWR) on the P3P's transmitter to the egg-beater isn't perfect, the P3P will decrease power in order to protect itself. Not good. Conclusion: Leave the P3P alone.

Also
You rarely see diversity antennas on a transmitter because it would be too easy for the signals to cancel each other out. I don't have a P3 but on the P2 the two linear antennas are physically 90° from each other giving the bird a more omnidirectional pattern with no null lobes.