My interest in the P2V+ is to use it as a video camera. I'm less interested in the still photos and don't fly it unless I'm recording video. Therefore, I'm interested in understanding the camera and how it functions. The User Manual isn't very complete, so I've assembled what I THINK I know about the camera. Please let me know if I've got any of it wrong.
I understand the P2V+ camera has a sensor cropped to a maximum resolution in large still photo mode of 4384X3288. The sensor is then further cropped to achieve two additional aspect ratios, but the horizontal pixel count always remains the same. There is no picture quality improvement by going to the larger files sizes, just a larger image in height with the width always remaining the same. I can see why someone would take still photos in L to achieve the largest image, or S to achieve a 16X9 aspect ratio to incorporate into HD video without cropping, but any M mode advantage escapes me.
In video mode, the sensor is further cropped to achieve different resolutions and FOV options, but always at the same 16X9 aspect ratios (except VGA mode). The 720P allows for a higher frame rate presumably because it's processing fewer pixels. Unfortunately, the 720P uses only the Medium FOV and the prop guards (and props) show too often in this mode. So unless I'm flying slow with no wind or flying downwind/backwards, I don't like the 720P too often to use it as my everyday mode. That leaves 1080P (can't imagine why anyone today would shoot 1080I) with two (not three like the User Manual says) Medium, and Narrow FOV. The Medium FOV is the same as the default FOV in 720 mode. So essentially, there is one FOV option for all modes, except for the Narrow FOV available only on any of the 1080 modes.
So it seems really, there are only four useful video modes. 1080P Medium and Narrow FOV at 30fps, and 720P Medium FOV at either 30 or 60fps. For me, that really leaves only one mode, 1080P Narrow at 30fps. If the wind is blowing, the prop guards show even in the 1080P Narrow, so either fly backwards into the wind, or no prop guards. Regardless of image quality, this shows the real limitations of this camera compared to the GoPro with a wider assortment of video options.
The 1080P Narrow works best for me because I don't see the props and there is very little fisheye distortion because you're only using the very center portion of the lens. I'm happy with that video when the camera is pointing straight ahead. There seems to be a slight curve to the horizon, but very acceptable. The curve of the horizon is worse with the camera pointed slightly downward, but everything seems fine once you get the horizon line above the FOV.
The lens aperture and focus is fixed, so exposure control is primarily achieved by varying the exposure time. Exposure time 'control' is achieved either by changing the gain on the sensor by changing the ISO, or by shifting the exposure manually up or down from the standard setting. Higher 400 ISO increases gain and shortens the shutter time, and 100 ISO lengthens the shutter time. Shifting the exposure darkens or lightens the image. The higher ISO setting (more sensor gain) will result in more noise in the image. One other alternative for exposure time 'control' is to add a neutral density filter to reduce the available light resulting in lengthened exposure times.
Is there anything else useful I can learn about the capabilities of this camera? Thanks for reading my TL explanation and for any help.
I understand the P2V+ camera has a sensor cropped to a maximum resolution in large still photo mode of 4384X3288. The sensor is then further cropped to achieve two additional aspect ratios, but the horizontal pixel count always remains the same. There is no picture quality improvement by going to the larger files sizes, just a larger image in height with the width always remaining the same. I can see why someone would take still photos in L to achieve the largest image, or S to achieve a 16X9 aspect ratio to incorporate into HD video without cropping, but any M mode advantage escapes me.
In video mode, the sensor is further cropped to achieve different resolutions and FOV options, but always at the same 16X9 aspect ratios (except VGA mode). The 720P allows for a higher frame rate presumably because it's processing fewer pixels. Unfortunately, the 720P uses only the Medium FOV and the prop guards (and props) show too often in this mode. So unless I'm flying slow with no wind or flying downwind/backwards, I don't like the 720P too often to use it as my everyday mode. That leaves 1080P (can't imagine why anyone today would shoot 1080I) with two (not three like the User Manual says) Medium, and Narrow FOV. The Medium FOV is the same as the default FOV in 720 mode. So essentially, there is one FOV option for all modes, except for the Narrow FOV available only on any of the 1080 modes.
So it seems really, there are only four useful video modes. 1080P Medium and Narrow FOV at 30fps, and 720P Medium FOV at either 30 or 60fps. For me, that really leaves only one mode, 1080P Narrow at 30fps. If the wind is blowing, the prop guards show even in the 1080P Narrow, so either fly backwards into the wind, or no prop guards. Regardless of image quality, this shows the real limitations of this camera compared to the GoPro with a wider assortment of video options.
The 1080P Narrow works best for me because I don't see the props and there is very little fisheye distortion because you're only using the very center portion of the lens. I'm happy with that video when the camera is pointing straight ahead. There seems to be a slight curve to the horizon, but very acceptable. The curve of the horizon is worse with the camera pointed slightly downward, but everything seems fine once you get the horizon line above the FOV.
The lens aperture and focus is fixed, so exposure control is primarily achieved by varying the exposure time. Exposure time 'control' is achieved either by changing the gain on the sensor by changing the ISO, or by shifting the exposure manually up or down from the standard setting. Higher 400 ISO increases gain and shortens the shutter time, and 100 ISO lengthens the shutter time. Shifting the exposure darkens or lightens the image. The higher ISO setting (more sensor gain) will result in more noise in the image. One other alternative for exposure time 'control' is to add a neutral density filter to reduce the available light resulting in lengthened exposure times.
Is there anything else useful I can learn about the capabilities of this camera? Thanks for reading my TL explanation and for any help.
