My Phantom 3 controller recently has had it's right thumbstick sunk in, causing it to be difficult to maneuver past a certain point- as seen in photo 3. The controller still works, and I am able to fly the drone. However, I can't move the stick past a certain range of motion unless I lift it up first, due to it being sunken into the controller. Has this happened to anyone elses controller before? Any solutions?
msinger
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The plastic around where that control stick is attached is likely cracked. You'll either need to open your remote controller to see what needs to be replaced or send it to a repair shop to be fixed.
Oso
Premium Pilot
Sadly, yes. It has been reported many times with the sticks and even the buttons. So often that it is almost a certainty that what Msinger noted is correct. Search on the forum for a couple of approaches others have taken to get sticks and/or buttons mounted again.
Hummingbird.UAV
Premium Pilot
White pieces should be in the controller. Glue with cyano, wrap thread around the outside of the cylinder and soak with cyano. Let it harden and screw the stick back in place.
msinger
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On some plastics gorilla glue will only hold for a short time. Especially when you go to tighten the screws up, the glue looses it’s mechanical bond to the plastic. If you choose to use a general purpose glue at least abrade the plastic pieces first. A good epoxy glue is a better choice in my opinion. After abrading the plastic clean the plastic area with a solvent like acetone. The acetone will help to clean the mold release agent used in the manufacturing process and help in giving the adhesive of your choice a chemical bond as well as the mechanical bond you will have from the abrasions you make from scuffing the plastic pieces. There are many plastic adhesives you can buy that are structural in their chemical nature, but also expensive. An auto parts store that carries products for auto body repair will have those adhesives. Just my opinion.
Good luck.
Good luck.
It seems to be working so far, but if I have any issues I'll probably just buy a new shell. Thanks for the information though.
I'm frequently repairing things, it seems. Perhaps "old school." Fix it; don't toss it. Plastic repair has always been a problem, until I discovered JB Weld. It's a 2 part product: the "steel" and the hardener.
There are two types of JB Weld: Quick dry and longer time dry. The latter is stronger. The drying time can be over 24 hours, but the end result will be quite strong. No, I do not have stock in the company!
There are two types of JB Weld: Quick dry and longer time dry. The latter is stronger. The drying time can be over 24 hours, but the end result will be quite strong. No, I do not have stock in the company!
You might like to have a look at Shell repair, battery connector mounting point and Opening and closing the controller, do not OVER TIGHTEN the screws.
If you are in the market for a new shell check ebay etc. for ex demo controllers, they seem to be basically shells with a few internals in them. I have used two so far to reshell controllers and the biggest problem I encountered was removing the white glue used to stick some of the buttons in place, especially where I wanted to keep those buttons (video record and camera shutter release were the worst to free up because of their angle and delicacy, C1 & C2 were quite easy). If you are lucky some of the internals may be fully functional with their wiring still attached.
If you are in the market for a new shell check ebay etc. for ex demo controllers, they seem to be basically shells with a few internals in them. I have used two so far to reshell controllers and the biggest problem I encountered was removing the white glue used to stick some of the buttons in place, especially where I wanted to keep those buttons (video record and camera shutter release were the worst to free up because of their angle and delicacy, C1 & C2 were quite easy). If you are lucky some of the internals may be fully functional with their wiring still attached.
I have just noticed that it has been suggested that acetone might be a cleaner. Can I suggest that if you are going to try it you test tiny amount on a small non critical area or perhaps a fragment, first, just to see what it does to the parent plastic.
I would test it myself on one of the above scrapped shells but I have run out of acetone at the moment.
I would test it myself on one of the above scrapped shells but I have run out of acetone at the moment.
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