Super Noob Needs Help

[ItsMeScott]

Hi all.

I inherited a P1 last night from a friend. He said that it took a bath in salt water and hasn't worked since. He gave it to me and said good luck.

I've never owned nor operated a working phantom so trouble shooting is a little bit difficult. I opened it up and began cleaning all the contacts. There doesn't really seem to be much rust or corrosion. The batteries both charge fully.

Here is what I have so far. I could use some direction.

The transmitter turns on but the indicator light is solid red.

The phantom turns on and flashes all kinds of lights, and beeps a bunch. After it boots, the yellow light on M3 flashes steadily while the green light on M4 sprays green. The yellow light will flash two quick flashes when I move the joystick. Other thank that, I got nothing.

Anyone able to point me in a good direction?

I downloaded NAZA-M V2 Assistant but when I plug in either the drone or the controller, I get nothing.

Thanks in advance.


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[N017RW]

If it was truly submerged in salt water and not rinsed and dried immediately... it's toast, salted toast.

Can you elaborate?

 

[ItsMeScott]

If it was truly submerged in salt water and not rinsed and dried immediately... it's toast, salted toast.

Can you elaborate?

Sure what do you need to know? As far as I know, it went under but the previous owned rinsed it off. Like a said, there isn't a lot of gunk inside. It's pretty clean surprisingly.

On a working drone, what happens when it powers up? Does the controller connect automatically and you just start flying? Do I need to reprogram anything? How do I test working and non working parts?

 

[N017RW]

Have you watched any set-up vids or looked through the manual at all?

Not very 'sexy' but you really need a foundation and point of reference for any advice given.

Review radio binding, radio calibration, drone calibration, driver(s) d-loading for firmware updates.

 

[ItsMeScott]

Have you watched any set-up vids or looked through the manual at all?

Not very 'sexy' but you really need a foundation and point of reference for any advice given.

Review radio binding, radio calibration, drone calibration, driver(s) d-loading for firmware updates.

On it. I'll start there

 

[N017RW]

Yea, even new from box there's a bit of set-up needed and great deal of 'training' (reading) to be done.

Just hoping the 'bath' doesn't complicate things too much since problems you may encounter may not be overcome due to salt damage.
This can be frustrating enough without the possibility something is damaged.

 

[eaglegoaltender]

I remember a buddy who's son had a video game that was submerged in salt water and once removed was not opened for a few months.

At that time he opened it up and saw plenty of evidence form salt residue. He removed the boards and identified components that are not waterproof (switches, buttons, and components that were only partially sealed). He then placed the boards in a dishwasher (twist ties to hold in place) and run a rinse cycle. Once done, he cleaned up in the small crevices with a soft bristled tooth brush - then submerged and rinsed with distilled water (non conductive).

To dry the boards they were placed in an oven - standing on end/side (maybe 125'f with door cracked open to release moist air - about 2 -3 hours of dry time that way). Or dry the long way by hand drying the boards with a towel then leaving to air dry (hung on a string) for 24 - 48 hours.

Don't use a blow dryer on any electrical circuit boards to remove water as it can create static electricity from the force of hot air blowing around the components and soldered parts.

Salt is the most conductive as compared to the water and must be completely removed (usually identified by white color). During the drying process you might see that white appear again- just go back to brushing it and continue to dry it.

I wouldn't attempt to even turn any electronic unit after it had been exposed (submerged) in water - especially salt water without taking it apart and cleaning thoroughly.

Oh ya - btw that video game turned on and worked great after he cleaned and dried all the components on the board!

 

[Helijoc]

Unfortunately the corrosive damage may already been done. What should have been done from the start is to immediately submerge the unit in fresh water and keep it submerged until you are ready to deal with it. After fresh water submerge it in alcohol. Let it dry. Alcohol when it evaporates will take some water with it. Then do the rice trick. I have brought cell phones back using that trick. If you have ever seen them retrieve black boxes from the ocean they transport them submerged in water until they dry them out.

 

[gianni_BT]

Sure what do you need to know? As far as I know, it went under but the previous owned rinsed it off. Like a said, there isn't a lot of gunk inside. It's pretty clean surprisingly.

On a working drone, what happens when it powers up? Does the controller connect automatically and you just start flying? Do I need to reprogram anything? How do I test working and non working parts?

If you are sure it is clean, go ahead with this procedure, otherwise follow what suggested in the posts above.
Before connecting the Assistant, I suggest to use the standard power up procedure.
First power on the Radio transmitter, then connect the battery to Phantom and look at the LED: depending on the color and type of led blinking you have a first diagnostic of what is eventually wrong.(for a quick reference see "Phantom_Flying_Flowchart" or "Phantom_Quick_Start_Manual" that you can easily download from Internet). If you get no led, probably your electronic is dead.

 

[ItsMeScott]

If you are sure it is clean, go ahead with this procedure, otherwise follow what suggested in the posts above.
Before connecting the Assistant, I suggest to use the standard power up procedure.
First power on the Radio transmitter, then connect the battery to Phantom and look at the LED: depending on the color and type of led blinking you have a first diagnostic of what is eventually wrong.(for a quick reference see "Phantom_Flying_Flowchart" or "Phantom_Quick_Start_Manual" that you can easily download from Internet). If you get no led, probably your electronic is dead.

VICTORY

As recommended, I have done some reading. These things aren't exactly idiot proof. I don't know what I expected but sure enough, there is a lot that goes into these things flying properly.

I powered on the transmitter, then powered on the drone. It beeped a bunch, then flashed its lights, then i got a steady slow green flash. I pushed the sticks down and to the center, and the motors began to turn (all but one) without the propellers. I throttled up and down and the motors reacted as one would expect. So it seams that the electronics are working fine (knock on wood).

Next question:

The motor that isn't spinning is a little stiff to the touch. When I spin the other 3 motors by had, they all turn fairly easily and equally. This one is a tad stiffer and clearly has some buildup in the bearings.

You would think that even with a little build up, it would spin, just slower. I am wondering if the motor is bad or if the ESC has a setting that disables the motor if there is too much resistance.

If I replace the bearings, is there a chance the motor will work or should I just start looking for a replacement?

 

[ItsMeScott]

Yea, even new from box there's a bit of set-up needed and great deal of 'training' (reading) to be done.

Just hoping the 'bath' doesn't complicate things too much since problems you may encounter may not be overcome due to salt damage.
This can be frustrating enough without the possibility something is damaged.

Did my homework. It helped a lot. I think the electronics are ok, or so they appear for now. Time to start trouble shooting mechanical.

 

[syotr]

VICTORY

As recommended, I have done some reading. These things aren't exactly idiot proof. I don't know what I expected but sure enough, there is a lot that goes into these things flying properly.

I powered on the transmitter, then powered on the drone. It beeped a bunch, then flashed its lights, then i got a steady slow green flash. I pushed the sticks down and to the center, and the motors began to turn (all but one) without the propellers. I throttled up and down and the motors reacted as one would expect. So it seams that the electronics are working fine (knock on wood).

Next question:

The motor that isn't spinning is a little stiff to the touch. When I spin the other 3 motors by had, they all turn fairly easily and equally. This one is a tad stiffer and clearly has some buildup in the bearings.

You would think that even with a little build up, it would spin, just slower. I am wondering if the motor is bad or if the ESC has a setting that disables the motor if there is too much resistance.

If I replace the bearings, is there a chance the motor will work or should I just start looking for a replacement?

Replace the motor and ESC to be safe. They are fairly cheap and easy to replace.

 

[ItsMeScott]

Replace the motor and ESC to be safe. They are fairly cheap and easy to replace.

Do i buy OEM parts from DJI? What site do you recommend?

 

[syotr]

Which model phantom do you have? Does it have self tightening props?
The first Phantom had props with flats inside the hole and used separate prop nuts. The Phantom 1.1.1 used props with the nut made as part of the prop hub. They had silver or black caps for right hand or left hand threads.
You can find motors and ESC's on Ebay, at Amazon, B&H Photo to name a few.

 

[ItsMeScott]

Which model phantom do you have? Does it have self tightening props?
The first Phantom had props with flats inside the hole and used separate prop nuts. The Phantom 1.1.1 used props with the nut made as part of the prop hub. They had silver or black caps for right hand or left hand threads.
You can find motors and ESC's on Ebay, at Amazon, B&H Photo to name a few.

Self tightening. Model P330Z. How do I find the proper model number for the replacement parts?


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[bigstevo]

Can I just say, the picture above you have put on is the inside of a P2..... check which model you have as the parts are not the same as a P1 (ESC especially)

 

[ItsMeScott]

Can I just say, the picture above you have put on is the inside of a P2..... check which model you have as the parts are not the same as a P1 (ESC especially)

Thanks for the heads up. I really am a noob here. I checked the model number and sure enough, it's a P2

Thanks again


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[syotr]

Phantom 2 ESC:
DJI ESC for Original Phantom (Red, Part 6) CP.PT.000006 B&H
Do a search on that site for "Phantom 2 motor." Compare the pictures of the motors and make sure which you have. There were 2 types used on the Phantom 2, a 2212 and a 2312 size. Also check the rotation and make sure you order the correct one.

 

[bigstevo]

The one you have listed is for a P1..... for a P2 you would need this >>>

DJIPV-07 ESC for Phantom Series

 

[ItsMeScott]

Phantom 2 ESC:
DJI ESC for Original Phantom (Red, Part 6) CP.PT.000006 B&H
Do a search on that site for "Phantom 2 motor." Compare the pictures of the motors and make sure which you have. There were 2 types used on the Phantom 2, a 2212 and a 2312 size. Also check the rotation and make sure you order the correct one.

How do I know if I have the 2212 or the 2312? I don't see any markings on the motor except what appears to be a lot number.

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