Soldering the antenna wire

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Hi all!

After a rough landing one of my 5.8Ghz antenna wire torned. As i know it is almost impossible to remove the UFL connector from the receiver board. So what is the solution, can i just solder it?

Thanks, in advance!
 
The correct answer is No. But I respect the DIY-er and Maker/Hacker in all of us.
Soldering any coax in a 'splice' attempt or configuration is not the preferred method and more problematic as the frequency increases. Certainly not as part of a permanent solution or repair.
Now factor in the size of the cable and you can see it will be challenging.
You have nothing to lose by trying it but would only use it until a replacement could be obtained. Be sure to test for a short afterwards and expect some possible reduced range.
Due to the diverse design of the dual-antenna config. you still have one un-modified antenna working for you.
 
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If you are going to try and solder the broken wire ends back together it is not a good solution and you will lose a lot of signal. now on the other hand if you are talking about removing the connector from the board and soldering the wire directly. that can be done as long as you are careful to desolderer the connecter off and dont bust off the traces were it solders down to the board. underneath the ipx connector there should be 3 solder contact pads on the rx board. the 2 on the out side are the ground and the center one is for the center conductor. You need to solder the outer sheilding sleeve to either of the 2 out side spots and the center conductor in the wire to the spot in the center of the 3 spots. and it will work just as good as normal. To its a real tight spot between the solder points so you have to be very very careful that none of the strands from the otter shield are sticking out and touching the center conductor at all. So its a good Ideal to pre tin the wires and esp the outer conductor and make sure there are no lose strands before soldering it down to the board.
 
There are posts here where folks describe how to remove the gunk on the receiver board around the ufl connector, so that's probably the best option.

If you do solder the coax as a temporary solution, here's my suggestion. Strip enough of the outer insulation to expose at least 1/4" (6mm) of shielding wire. Pull all the shielding wire to one side, give it a twist, then strip a tiny amount of the inner insulation to expose the center conductor. Tin both the center wire and twisted shielding wire with solder. Repeat for the other side. If using heatshrink, put some around the inner wire, then solder the inner wires together. Insulate the joint (heatshrink or hotglue), then solder the outer shielding together. Then wrap some foil around the whole stripped area, and put heatshrink or tape around that.
 
Thanks for the suggestions. I think i try the removal, do you have any link for it?
I don't want temporary solutions, cause i spent for the antenna upgrade and that will waste my extended range.
 
I cut my antenna off a month or so ago. I just replaced the receiver board. Took about 10 minutes.
 
Ya I remember that !! JIMO it's just better than messing with that goo and you do know for sure ya hadn't messed up !!
Done been there :mad:
 
I just wondering, because this is my receiver board:
IMG_20150315_174638.jpg

It looks like is untouched, but the another end of the cable has an rp-sma connector. I bought this bird second hand, thats why i don't know how can be possible that the ufl is on the place but it has a non standard connector at the other side.
 
I just wondering, because this is my receiver board:
IMG_20150315_174638.jpg

It looks like is untouched, but the another end of the cable has an rp-sma connector. I bought this bird second hand, thats why i don't know how can be possible that the ufl is on the place but it has a non standard connector at the other side.
No picture bro ?
 
That board looks to me as it has already had the goo took off .
So all you would have to do is put new antenna's on .

Added / Ya are gonna have to remove that board though as it will be a lot easier to put the new ones on right . When they both are screwed down the top board sits on top of those connecters and help keeps them secure .
 
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That black goo ya see by the left one was all over the ones I have done and those look just from the picture as they should at least turn . If they won't though do like he said but I have messed one of those up and had to buy a new one . You do not want that black mess off the board but just the connecter to pop it up !!! The one on the board will come off and that's what happen to me .
If mine had looked like that I would have just dapped some fingernail polish remover on it and worked it till it came lose . I have heard to use a head gun or hot hair dryer to help loosen it up .
Anyway good luck and do tell how ya do ! ;)
 

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