Solder help needed

[BDFlyer]

I am working to repair my P3 that drowned and smoked out a couple of chips on the main board. I'm right now trying to solder the wires back on and finding that the solder for the RD YW and BK wires, which are thicker and for the motor is needing more heat than the others.

Does anyone know what wattage iron I need to get to make that work? I don't want to fry the new board.

Thank you.

Tim


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[Richard R]

Most electronics handle 25W irons no problem. Try to keep the tip as far away from the electronic components as possible, tip right on the solder pad you are working on. you might want to pre-solder the wires then place them on the pads and bring the iron tip down on top of the wire. Remove the tip as soon as the solder melts.

 

[BDFlyer]

I forgot to add that the board I bought is secondhand and has the solder on it already. I had tried to desolder the old board but could not get these same connections to melt then either.


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[peter west nz]

That's because it has been done with lead-free solder - the melting point is well above lead-based solder. Get some thin lead based solder [I use crystal 6040] & melt that into the existing solder. It will amalgamate & make the overall melting point lower. In my opinion [as someone who does a lot of repair work and manufacturing] , leadfree solder is one of the dumbest ideas that were ever forced onto the electronics industry. The solder is difficult to use and is brittle, making surfacemount circuit boards much more prone to failure through broken joints. A decent extraction system makes the danger of inhaling lead fumes minimal. The fact that lead-based solder is still freely available suggests that industry doesn't think much of it either.

 

[BDFlyer]

Thanks, I'll give that a try!

TIm


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[GrammatonxXXxCleric]

Use flux, presolder leads using flux.

 

[BDFlyer]

Thank you everyone. I have three more wires to go and they are all attached. Then come a test with no propellers and on from there. I can't wait to be airborne.


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