Relocate USB connector & change style

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Several had done this and the benefits are; lighter weight, easy access and easier to insert the battery because there will be no USB cable in the way.
Mine is a little different because I used Usb Mini B 5p female to right angled micro B male cable. The right angle makes it look tidier.
The procedure is quite simple, remove the top shell, remove the stock USB cable (you have to cut the white glue off first before you can unplug the cable. Next just cut the square on the bottom shell where you want the connector to be. Glue both ends of the cable. At the plug by the board, I added a tiny piece of foam pad and glue it between the plug and the inside surface to prevent it coming loose from vibration.

Stock cable then the new cable I used: (not to scale)
P1250275Small_zps457f9488.jpg

IMG_4042-5_zps262f073c.jpg

IMG_4050-3_zpsed43770f.jpg


P1250268Small_zpsdd9c26d2.jpg

Short but long enough.

P1250272Small_zps7bd1087f.jpg

Ready to use.

P1250278Small_zps23299e40.jpg
 
insatiable said:
Great idea! But doesnt look like you lightened it up any with the replacement choice.

Like I said the two pictures are not to scale. In real life, the stock one is about twice as long and weighs at 9.86 grams. Another fellow claimed 4 grams saved but I didn't weigh the new cable. ;)

Look at them side by side again below:

USBcables_zpsd929612c.jpg
 
There is a little savings in weight, but the main thing is the CONVENIENCE of being able to connect easily, without having to fish around in the battery compartment to find that USB cable.
 
BadWolf said:
Me, I'd try to remove all that bulky plastic, and wrap it with electrical tape. I'd also use low temp hot glue to bond it to the shell.

Not only that it is not easy to remove the plastic covering without slicing into the wires, but also this will cause 2 problems:
1. The end that will be hooked up with the computer requires the frame to secure with the body's opening.

2. If you remove the plastic casing from the other end that will be plugged into the Phantom USB board, the gap between the plug and the inside surface of the shell will be about 1/4", which will make it difficult to glue especially the low temperature hot glue that you suggested to fill that BIG gap.

If you already done so, please show the pictures.
 
My micro male to micro female cable arrived today. It weighed 6.9 grams. I stripped the outer plastic off it and it now weighs 3.2 grams. I can't post pictures now, I'm at work, I'll do it later. I'm also working on a lock n load battery system. Just push the battery in and it makes the electrical connection.
 
If I were to do it again. I will dremmel a groove 360 around the plug down to the metal so it will lock into the shell without using any CA.

The lock & load battery system is interesting but will it also connect the balance cable for FPV and such?
 
You should never tap off the balance connector. If you are trying to pull 3.7 or 7.4 v off the battery it will unbalance the cells. If you need 11.1 v there's the accessory wire inside. If you need a lower voltage you should use a BEC.
 
Here's the pics of the usb cable. After I stripped it down I tried it on my cell phone, it works fine. I have since painted the shielding on the wires with liquid electrical tape. I changed my mind on the glue. I'm going to use white Loctite Superflex silicone adhesive. That's probably the closest thing to the original glue. If anyone wants to get one of these cables I got mine at Amazon. Motorola Micro USB SKN6258 Adapter.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EJ ... UTF8&psc=1

pusb1.jpg


pusb2.jpg


pusb3.jpg
 
The main reason I'm building the "Lock N Load" battery system is because the battery bangs around in the compartment in a crash. The mainboard is the ceiling in the battery compartment. This has caused some mainboards to crack. Is it possible you could have a "Fly-A-Way" from a cracked mainboard? I don't want to take that chance. The materials have been ordered, should be here by the middle of this coming week. Here's some pics of damage caused by a battery in a crash

batterydamage1.jpg


batterydamage2.jpg


batterydamage3.jpg
 
BadWolf said:
The main reason I'm building the "Lock N Load" battery system is because the battery bangs around in the compartment in a crash. The mainboard is the ceiling in the battery compartment. This has caused some mainboards to crack. Is it possible you could have a "Fly-A-Way" from a cracked mainboard? I don't want to take that chance. The materials have been ordered, should be here by the middle of this coming week. Here's some pics of damage caused by a battery in a crash

batterydamage1.jpg


batterydamage2.jpg


batterydamage3.jpg

Are those the actual pictures of your crash??? :?:
 
Danger !!! that crack is in a very bad location. It could disrupt power delivery to the Naza controller/receiver, or even
cause a fire. I've seen one of those fets catch fire on my esc.
 
Great idea I went to frys and bought the same one that you find in the computer it has two threaded holes for screws so no glue and it comes 2 to a package it was 4 bucks a real clean install when I take the lid off again I will take pictures and share . Also you have to get a male ended on both ends of the USB cable I made mine real easy just solder it up but they also sell one for 3 bucks but I forgot and didn't want to drive back . If someone is serious and need the part # I will search it down and post it for you guys. Also for the people that are buying a head light on line for $14.00 I found a real clean 3 led light in a water proof housing real light weight and super bright I mounted it on my gimble it matches the phantom and it was $3.88 for the 3 light and they carry 4 bulb with different colors if your interested hope this helps you guys it is fun sharing the things I find and learn and what you all present on the boards thanks George
 

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