Poor quality S1 switch

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A bit of a warning to aĺl. My Phantom wasn't behaving as it should.. hooked up the assistant.

Anyway, noticed that S1 worked properly between GPS and ATTI.

A big however, the lighest touch on S1 in GPS moved it to ATTI on the assistant. Clicking it up and down moved it back to GPS, but the slighest touch moved it to ATTI again.

I may send it back or just replace the switch with a quality item.
 
Yep, had the same problem on my out of warranty Phantom1. I blamed it on how often I calibrate compass. Purchased a new P2 controller on EBay and took switch out of it.
 
I installed a double pole in mine for redundant contacts. I have since moved to Futaba, world of difference in quality, world of difference in price.
 
I've got this on my brand new P2 as well. Have only done one flight so far! With the slightest touch it would think it was switched (looking at it in assistant this is). I recalibrated in assistant and it seemed to be ok after that, but now reading this post I'm kinda scared to take it out again as its all still new to me incase it happens in flight.
 
It does make you think about some of the issues people are having. Certainly my first thought was that it was losing GPS and dropping into atti.

It seems a shame that dji are using such poor quality switches and likely as not ignoring any quality checks.
 
It does make you think about some of the issues people are having. Certainly my first thought was that it was losing GPS and dropping into atti.

It seems a shame that dji are using such poor quality switches and likely as not ignoring any quality checks.
 
Seems it might be a good idea to replace these switches as a matter of course.

Not got my Tx apart at the moment,- anyone got an idea of the spec or a source of a quality replacement?
 
discv said:
Seems it might be a good idea to replace these switches as a matter of course.

Not got my Tx apart at the moment,- anyone got an idea of the spec or a source of a quality replacement?

Other helpful people on this forum pointed me at this

http://www.digikey.co.uk/product-search ... =search_go

I cant say it is exactly the same one that DJI use, and this does not have the domed nut, but it looks close and is expected to do 50,000 electrical cycles.

One thing to watch for is that there is a similar switch does not have a middle position - the one in the link above has On-Off-On which I think is what is needed.
 
discv said:
Thanks Hughie- looks about right. Now that would explain PhantomPhreaks modification above i.e. half the chance of a failure.

Suppose it's best described as 2 gang 2 way (centre off)?

As landmannnn says it is a SPDT, but you can make it a DPDT to add some redundancy. I also did this. Although that makes not a squat of difference if you drop the controller, these switches smash really easily :)
 
landmannnn said:
In the UK I have bought a couple of switches from RS Components.

The spec is a SPDT on/off/on miniature toggle. I think I saw 2a at 125v. on the old one.

The original is rated at
2A @ 250VAC
5A @ 125VAC
 
PhantomPhreak said:
I installed a double pole in mine for redundant contacts.

Twice my S2 switch has failed me. I put it in HomeLock position and assumed the Phatom was coming back to me as I pulled back on the stick. When I finally realized it was actually going in another direction I toggled S2 and HomeLock finally initiated.

I believe I will do as PhantomPhreak has done and replace the existing ones with DPDT switches from DigiKey.

EDIT:
I tested the S2 switch while connected to DJI RC Assistant. I flipped it countless times and it never failed. Now I'm confused as to why HomeLock failed to do anything on two occasions. This worries me as I rely on HomeLock when I loose visual on my Phantom.
 
Yep, had the same problem on my out of warranty Phantom1. I blamed it on how often I calibrate compass. Purchased a new P2 controller on EBay and took switch out of it.
Always calibrate the compass using the software - NEVER the switch. You will just wear it out.
 
Always calibrate the compass using the software - NEVER the switch. You will just wear it out.
This information is brought to you by 3D Robotics, folks!

A note- it would appear that the new controller (with the upper left scroll wheel) does not have room to accept a double pole switch.
 
I had a problem with the CL / HL switch, but actually, it was not the switch, but a fault on the board. It behaved like the switch was failing open circuit - so in the centre CL position. In the end, I sold the TX and bought a new one, having changed the switch and cable harness.

The board is multi-layer, so virtually impossible to fix entirely, so a new TX seemed like the cheapest way of protecting my £1500 investment!
 
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