Pontoons or Flotation Devices for the Phantom

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What have those of you who fly the Phantom over open water devised to keep it floating should it crash land?

I'd like to see a picture of any simple styrofoam gizmo or floats than can be used to keep it buoyant.

If possible, please give us an idea of how big any buoyancy device has to be to keep the Phantom from sinking.

Finally, does anyone know if the compass module on the landing gear is affected if it goes underwater?
 
Can I bump this up again and ask if anyone has some advice about adding flotation to the Phantom.
 
Frank, there has been some recent discussion about this. Read here:

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1192

and here:

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=986

I don't know which thread I posted this in but I tied a couple of 18 inch foam noodles under the Phantom's arms. It flew ok but I only tried one flight. I'm sure it would be unsinkable. I'm also sure that most people would say it looks too silly. Better silly than sorry, eh? ;)
 
problem with the crash landing is that you rarely land right on your skids and instead come in sideways. pontoons will only help keep it from sinking but won't let you have a nice safe water landing. unless you do just that, land nice and safely and slowly.
 
I tried pontoons made from pool noodles. They had to be really long or the Phantom would tip easily. They had a lot of wind resistance from the propwash and actual wind. They also showed up in the camera's view.
This was my second attempt. They worked well to land and take off from still water and had less wind resistance. They did show up in the camera's view.

Finally I used some smaller pill bottles under each motor and foam blocks inside the landing skids. I am now building a waterproof quad.
 

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I've dropped mine into both a river and sea. Washed with fresh water and dried out for two days. Everything worked except wifi on the gopro. Gimbal, gopro and phantom all were fine. Threw the battery out though just in case. It does sink. Like a rock.
 
syotr said:
I tried pontoons made from pool noodles. They had to be really long or the Phantom would tip easily. They had a lot of wind resistance from the propwash and actual wind. They also showed up in the camera's view.
This was my second attempt. They worked well to land and take off from still water and had less wind resistance. They did show up in the camera's view.

Finally I used some smaller pill bottles under each motor and foam blocks inside the landing skids. I am now building a waterproof quad.


Keep us posted on the waterproofing. Very interested - thanks.
 
Consider this...

In lieu of something for full flotation there is the option to build a recovery device with lightweight fishing line (spider wire) and a fishing float.

This doesn't prevent the craft from sinking but will allow for it to be recovered. The weight of the system would be much less than a full floatation setup.

I'm thinking that in most cases a craft that crashes into a body of water may end up in an orientation where the electronics are submerged regardless of the floatation system employed. With a recovery device you could have a small and lightweight buoy to mark the spot and the line would allow you to retrieve the phantom.

A couple of strips of something like this could be used to secure the rigging to the craft - http://www.amazon.com/Bohin-Double-Side ... luble+tape

If the Phantom hits the water, the tape dissolves releasing the float with recovery line attached, result - less sad ending.

Giving the electronics inside a poly coating would be helpful in minimizing the damage due to water intrusion.
 
LandYachtMedia said:
Giving the electronics inside a poly coating would be helpful in minimizing the damage due to water intrusion.

I had a friend mention that his son (who is into all kinds of different RC hobbies) swears by CorrosionX. He says that if the electronics are coated with this stuff, it helps quite a bit to protect it if it decides to go for a swim. Any thoughts?
 
LandYachtMedia said:
Consider this...

In lieu of something for full flotation there is the option to build a recovery device with lightweight fishing line (spider wire) and a fishing float.

This doesn't prevent the craft from sinking but will allow for it to be recovered. The weight of the system would be much less than a full floatation setup.

I'm thinking that in most cases a craft that crashes into a body of water may end up in an orientation where the electronics are submerged regardless of the floatation system employed. With a recovery device you could have a small and lightweight buoy to mark the spot and the line would allow you to retrieve the phantom.

A couple of strips of something like this could be used to secure the rigging to the craft - http://www.amazon.com/Bohin-Double-Side ... luble+tape

If the Phantom hits the water, the tape dissolves releasing the float with recovery line attached, result - less sad ending.

Giving the electronics inside a poly coating would be helpful in minimizing the damage due to water intrusion.

Interesting you mention this method, about 10 years ago, I had purchased a device very similar to this, and it was intended for fishing rods if one fell into the water. It worked as described saving me $$. I just can't seem to find who made it or if they are still available.
 
I would think it's better than nothing - but I would also be concerned about possible overheating if you did hose down everything within the Phantom.
 
Overheating isn't going to be an issue when dunked. The problem is with the conductivity of the water due to dissolved ionic material causing shorts in the sensitive electronics.

Dunking into fresh water isn't great for the electronics but certainly recoverable if handled quickly. Salt water or heavily chlorinated water such as a pool will tear things up pretty quickly.
 
Phantasmic said:
LandYachtMedia said:
Whoa.. You fly over some serious water.

California reservoirs can be really deep.

This is only 150' or so. When full, max depth in the main body is over 700'.

Ah.. Kerr Lake is the deepest thing around here. It is over 100' in places. Most of it is much less.

You could certainly do a DIY version with a much longer lead.
 
LandYachtMedia said:
Overheating isn't going to be an issue when dunked. The problem is with the conductivity of the water due to dissolved ionic material causing shorts in the sensitive electronics.

Dunking into fresh water isn't great for the electronics but certainly recoverable if handled quickly. Salt water or heavily chlorinated water such as a pool will tear things up pretty quickly.
Sorry, I meant overheating while flying - as I assume the coating would create a sort of airtight seal over the electronics to prevent water getting in - and heat generated by the electronics to escape.
 
LandYachtMedia said:
Overheating isn't going to be an issue when dunked. The problem is with the conductivity of the water due to dissolved ionic material causing shorts in the sensitive electronics.

Dunking into fresh water isn't great for the electronics but certainly recoverable if handled quickly. Salt water or heavily chlorinated water such as a pool will tear things up pretty quickly.
Sorry, I meant overheating while flying - as I assume the coating would create a sort of airtight seal over the electronics to prevent water getting in - and heat generated by the electronics to escape.
 

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