Polar Pro ND4 Questions

[rhwd2003]

I ordered the three pack of Polar Pro filters for my P4 and got the Polarizer, ND4 & ND8. I did a comparison flight video programming the flight with the regular filter, polarizer, nd4 and nd8. The file is so big and I am traveling I can't upload it right now but I had the same issue. Check this video out yesterday I did with the ND4 and see the "artifacts" or "fuzziness" I am getting. What am I doing wrong? This last flight was actually my third battery flying and it may have got a little too dark but it was right at Dusk and that was the filter I thought I needed to be shooting with. I was shooting at 4k @ 30fps in auto mode.

Any help or suggestions on why I see all these little artifacts and fuzziness? Even my shoot during the bright day had the same issue.

 

[Technodynamic]

Did you just upload the file as is to youtube? or do editing first?

Putting on the filter in the evening, with mostly cloudy skies is going to force your ISO to go very high. I believe you only want the filter when its brighter with clouds. Being evening probably is making it too dark.

 

[qrandle]

That's exactly your problem. The conditions might have been a bit too dark in the first place and with it being on auto it's going to go to a higher iso, which will create this type of problem. You want to manually keep your ISO at 100 and then your shutter speed twice your FPS to get the desired "film look"

Also I would only be shooting in 5k for a "real" project. And if you have a lot of computing power. Otherwise it becomes a hassle for the additional quality.

Q

 

[LosDosMonitos]

That's exactly your problem. The conditions might have been a bit too dark in the first place and with it being on auto it's going to go to a higher iso, which will create this type of problem. You want to manually keep your ISO at 100 and then your shutter speed twice your FPS to get the desired "film look"

Also I would only be shooting in 5k for a "real" project. And if you have a lot of computing power. Otherwise it becomes a hassle for the additional quality.

Q

Why is a hassle for the additional quality? I'm still learning.

 

[rhwd2003]

Ok this is what is a little confusing for me, I thought from what I read in the PolarPro thread that you could fly in auto with the filters? I am uploading my other comparison video to show you the same thing there too.

 

[Technodynamic]

O ordered an ND8 and ND16 (non-polarized) and a blue gradient filter for a trip to Marco Island (south Florida) coming up. Trying to make the water look its best. That will be my first experience. If it's evening, not sure you'll want anything other than perhaps a UV filter if you are shooting into a sunset. I always assume 10AM-4PM for most of these filters when its bright (pure sun, partly cloudy).

 

[Michael Judd]

As stated above, the filters are for shooting in daylight. They cut down the amount of light so the shutter speed can be about double the frame rate. The ISO should always be kept low, (100) and if shooting at 30 FPS then the speed should be at 1/60, 60 FPS would be 1/120. You cannot shoot in auto and maintain these settings. One thing I have learned is that you have to learn the settings for the camera and adjust them manually. Sure you can just shoot in auto, but the quality will not be the same

 

[rhwd2003]

Ok so just curious, where do I figure out what its shooting at? If there is sun and I want to shoot in all directions, towards, away and left to right of the sun essentially in all 360 degrees how do I figure out the best settings? Do I need to keep the regular lens on to calculate that setting?