Phantom 3 standard - motor change failure

[beigehornet]

I had an issue with one motor post crash.

Swapped all 4 motors out but none of them engage. Put a multimeter on the cables but get no flow.

Re connected the original motors and they also get no flow or reaction when attempting to take off.

No errors on the app.

Thoughts?

 

[emfederin]

Need more info:
Why did you replace all 4 motors?
What was the "issue" you had with the one motor?
Did the other 3 motors work properly after the crash but before replacement?
How hard was your crash? Was there fuselage/circuit damage?
Can you provide pictures of the insides of your machine, including closeups of the motor solder connections and circuit boards?
Are you sure you replaced type for type? IOW, cw motors with cw, ccw with ccw?
Is it possible you swapped out 2312 motors for 2312A or vice versa?
Does your gimbal respond and sound its wakeup when you power up?
What happens when you execute a CSC to turn the motors on? And I mean EXACTLY what happens.
Does the DJI GO app tell you anything? You say there's no errors on the app, and that's a good thing, but does your P3 respond to any app commands?

 

[beigehornet]

Need more info:
Why did you replace all 4 motors? To ensure they are all the same.

What was the "issue" you had with the one motor?Under lift the drone would rotate out of control. Single motor lagging behind

Did the other 3 motors work properly after the crash but before replacement?yes 3 were fine.

How hard was your crash? Was there fuselage/circuit damage?20m crash. Worked fine till the swap. Minor damage to shell

Can you provide pictures of the insides of your machine, including closeups of the motor solder connections and circuit boards?

Are you sure you replaced type for type? IOW, cw motors with cw, ccw with ccw? I replaced with the same yes

Is it possible you swapped out 2312 motors for 2312A or vice versa? Motors show 2312

Does your gimbal respond and sound its wakeup when you power up?Gimble works fine. Camera shows clear video.

What happens when you execute a CSC to turn the motors on? And I mean EXACTLY what happens. Nothing. App shows taking off, but motors show no reaction. No volts to motors

Does the DJI GO app tell you anything? You say there's no errors on the app, and that's a good thing, but does your P3 respond to any app commands?App shows no issue with the drone. No errors. No warnings. Take off on the app accepts the command but nothing else happens.

 

[beigehornet]

The drone parts. Note no break to solder on any wire. I spliced mid wire to make it easier. And I rather not touch the control board.

Stock motor doesn't react to the drone at all.

 

[emfederin]

The drone parts. Note no break to solder on any wire. I spliced mid wire to make it easier. And I rather not touch the control board

Okay, I'm not completely sure what you're showing me here.

Img_2110 shows some kind of motor I've never seen before with a "D2312" number that I can only find as a 3rd party "racing motor". It doesn't seem to be a DJI motor and its leads are terminated in a plug and are not color-coded.

Img_2111 shows the newer "A" type motor HOWEVER...DJI is becoming a total PITA with their materials. They just came out with the 2312A motors, and it looks like they've already been replaced by 2312E motors.

The control boards are different in phantoms and the 2312 boards can't take 2312A motors (or vice versa) and god only knows what the 2312E and 3rd party racing motors will work with - and DJI damned sure isn't forthcoming with technical info.

They sell a top-notch product, but once they've got your money, they're done with you and you're on your own.

 

[beigehornet]

So bumping this a tad, since had the motors refunded, but issue i have is with the stock motors re connected they dont work at all.

I have thrown a multimeter on them to see if i get any flow at all and nothin.

Suggestions, or steps i can check to see why?

 

[stuka75]

Assuming the motors are good/new, and the wires are soldered properly, if its an after crash process, then something is probably schmucked in the circuitry or wiring from the crash.

 

[Bordo_bereli51]

Phantom 3 Standard uses 2312A, other than that will not work.
After you soldered the 4-Motors D2312 and tried to start it, the 4 ESC may have suffered from this and became damaged. That tells why the stock motors are not working and you get no flow at all after trying the D2312-Motors. Now maybe you need to replace the entire board.
Or you buy two CW 2312A-Motors and two CCW 2312A-Motors and solder it using soldering-iron.

 

[beigehornet]

Is there any way to test if the board and controllers are toast? follow the voltage flow or too hard basket

 

[With The Birds]

How did you "spice" the wires? The individual wires are actually magnet wire taken directly from the stator windings (they are individually insulated inside the bundles). You need to mechanically remove the insulation prior to joining, this is a rough way of replacing motors although it can work satisfactory if properly executed. A simpler
more reliable connection is to solder directly to the main board.

 

[beigehornet]

How did you "spice" the wires? The individual wires are actually magnet wire taken directly from the stator windings (they are individually insulated inside the bundles). You need to mechanically remove the insulation prior to joining, this is a rough way of replacing motors although it can work satisfactory if properly executed. A simpler
more reliable connection is to solder directly to the main board.

I have not re done the solder, i spliced mid wire with in line connectors, do they need to be soldered into the circuit before they will get any flow?

 

[With The Birds]

I have not re done the solder, i spliced mid wire with in line connectors, do they need to be soldered into the circuit before they will get any flow?

Spliced mid wire how? Did you remove the insulation off each individual strand?

 

[beigehornet]

Spliced mid wire how? Did you remove the insulation off each individual strand?

Each, RED YELLOW BLACK - took the coloured insulation off, exposing the duel copper inner wires, i assume they also arent insulated in clear coating?

 

[With The Birds]

Each, RED YELLOW BLACK - took the coloured insulation off, exposing the duel copper inner wires, i assume they also arent insulated in clear coating?

You assumed wrong- the individual copper wires do have clear coating (I.e. Insulation). You can scratch it off with a sharp knife if by dipping in a molten solder bath.

I would forget the connectors, you are just introducing another unnecessary failure mode.

 

[beigehornet]

You assumed wrong- the individual copper wires do have clear coating (I.e. Insulation). You can scratch it off with a sharp knife if by dipping in a molten solder bath.

I would forget the connectors, you are just introducing another unnecessary failure mode.

THE PLOT THICKENS! thanks mate ill do some testing before i solder back to the board!

 

[With The Birds]

THE PLOT THICKENS! thanks mate ill do some testing before i solder back to the board!

Plot thickens how? You have found the problem.

Given you have cut the wires they won't reach the board now so strip the insulation, tin generously and sweat together. Cover with heat shrink.

You will probably find that you didn't have a bad motor to start with, more likely a cooked ESC.

 

[beigehornet]

Plot thickens how? You have found the problem.

Given you have cut the wires they won't reach the board now so strip the insulation, tin generously and sweat together. Cover with heat shrink.

You will probably find that you didn't have a bad motor to start with, more likely a cooked ESC.

These wires are not easy to solder, they dont want to take the tin

 

[With The Birds]

These wires are not easy to solder, they dont want to take the tin

Now I'm thinking you might be taking the piss? You need to remove the insulation first, when they take solder you can be comfortable you have nice bare copper and will get a good soldered connection.

 

[beigehornet]

Now I'm thinking you might be taking the piss? You need to remove the insulation first, when they take solder you can be comfortable you have nice bare copper and will get a good soldered connection.

i have the bare copper, still not taking the tin very well

 

[With The Birds]

i have the bare copper, still not taking the tin very well

That's a good sign you haven't done an adequate job of removing the insulation and/or you are applying the solder to the iron tip (wire not hot enough) or it's to hot.