Phantom 2 vision+ (ribbon cable)

[bmw330vasilis]

I search a lot in here and in YouTube.

i just need your help to find a video or diagram to change my broken ribbon cable to my Phantom.

After a crash my ribbon cable broke so i need to change it.

i believe that i can do it but i need a guide for this.

i already found person from here to fix it but i m from Greece and he is in USA.

i need it to be ready until next Friday so i don't have so many time to send it there and get it back.

i would be grateful for your help...

thank you

 

[hunch]

vasilis,
i think you joined my FB page already, i will be recording the whole thing how to replace the cable and post it here and on FB.
i think there might few people interested in how to replace it.

hani

 

[bmw330vasilis]

I appreciate that my friend. I would like to buy a ribbon from you if you can send me very fast. I need it until next Friday. The only person I trust to send it for repair is you but I don't have time to send it back to me in Greece. Many thanks...

 

[hunch]

Should be online and link posted here within an hour.

 

[helieddie]

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=23677

 

[rbhamilton]

Should be online and link posted here within an hour.

Don't forget to post it here too! Not all of us have an account on that CIA sponsored privacy violating evil empire website you mentioned.

 

[dbfletcher]

Should be online and link posted here within an hour.

Don't forget to post it here too! Not all of us have an account on that CIA sponsored privacy violating evil empire website you mentioned.

No truer words have ever been written!

 

[hunch]

Enjoy

http://youtu.be/dmFmMrPT9Wo

 

[CityZen]

Some tips for those attempting this:
- If you use a paperclip with a small J-shape bend in the end, you can open the latches on the motors without having to remove their covers.
- It's not necessary to remove the camera board from its housing.
- If you put a small piece of tape over the button, it doesn't fall out, and it's in place when you reassemble.
- If you arrange the screws in groups as you take them out, it's much easier to find the right ones when you put things back together.
- You shouldn't separate the gimbal roll motor unnecessarily. But if it was separated, you need to make sure it's properly aligned when you put it back together. For this, you do need to take off its cover and verify that the flat of the shaft is up and level. Then apply a bit of loctite or superglue from the outside afterward.

Tools that you should have for this:
- 00 phillips screwdriver
- 1mm flat screwdriver (helps to open or close those cable latches)
- small tweezers, or angled tweezers (helps to manipulate cable ends into the connectors, also manipulate tiny screws)
- paperclip with a small J-bend in the straightened-out end
- small flashlight (to look inside the motor covers and see if the cable latch is opened or closed)

Final note: be very careful when sticking the cable back down. The adhesive is very sticky, and you have to pull on it pretty hard to get the cable up again if you don't align it right the first time. Near the motors, you need to be careful that you align the cable to not bind against anything.

 

[hunch]

Thanks for your input CityZ,
this was done with a broken cable and non working camera and i wanted to do it as quick as possible so i don't have to speed up the video.
i've replaced 20+ cables in past month alone and i opened them all up all the way just because i want to make sure that the plastic
tabs are completely secure on every connection. it doesn't take much time to take the three screws out

and i'd rather spend couple extra minutes to do it right then to find out later that i have to open it anyways.
besides, on every crashed gimbal / camera i also inspect the sensors and potentiometers inside and you HAVE to open the cover
in order to test those.

 

[Jstic]

I've done about a dozen of these and find it easiest to start from the camera end and work toward the top of the gimbal. For the simple reason that it is kind of tricky to wind the cable around the camera shaft where the screw is if you don't. You have to eventually get the camera end connector under the wound cable. By starting from the camera end you simply wind the cable around after it has been stuck down where the adhesive is. I saw the way it was done in the video, but someone who has not done this before may end up winding the cable around and then putting the camera connector in without routing it under the wound cable. I know this sounds confusing, but when you do one, it makes sense.

We don't use the aftermarket cables, so I can't speak for them, but if using OEM cables it is best to wait until the cable is routed into place before removing the paper that covers the adhesive backed areas. Once you expose that adhesive, it's much harder to get the cable in perfect position without sticking it somewhere you hadn't intended. The more of these you do, the easier it gets, obviously. For those who are only doing this once or for the first time, take cloeseup pictures or video if you can of the disassembly process, even with the available video it might help.