P2 recovery after salt water flooding

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Hi everyone,

I'm in the process of reviving my P2 after a dip in the sea when I was on holiday. It was submerged under about 3 ft of water for about 5 minutes (after having hit a pole next to the water).
I dried it out and ditched the battery. Eventually I cleaned it and the gimbal and the GoPro with contact cleaner and isopropyl alcohol as thoroughly as I could, and when it was dry I switched it on with a new battery. First time, it half-beeped, LEDs went red and something popped and burnt up inside. I found the blown ESC and have replaced it with a new one.

Today after another cleaning session, I started it up again with the top removed. No smoke/burning. Initially, the 4 LEDs were red, and the start up beeps were also okay, but something else was doing this repeated 'be-beep' underneath. Then the LEDs went to green and then only the rear LEDs began flashing amber. Front LEDs were inactive. Beeping/flashing until deactivation.

http://youtu.be/MbkBP8VI1iA

[youtube]http://youtu.be/MbkBP8VI1iA[/youtube]

Other thing I noticed was the OSD mini's little green LED was also flashing.

Gimbal was doing nothing - normally it would be going through its exercises.

Any idea of what is wrong?

Thanks

Reuben
 
Thanks,

So the flashing amber LEDs show that its respective ESC is bad? (ie the two rear ones)

How about the beeping? I just checked the bb...bb...bb... explanation on the wiki - it denotes abnormal input power apparently.
 
Actually the beeping is the indicator, the lights do this to make sure you know for sure something is wrong. The lights do not specify which ESC is bad, unfortunately. Your going to have to find the bad ESC manually. I really do wish the lights would correlate to the bad ESC, it would be an awesome feature! But until then hope this helped. :)
 
Falling into salt water is the most worse what can happen to any unprotected PCB. Salt water is a conductor and will produce lots of closed circuits on any electronics board inside the P2 and the gimbal. Also, the PCBs and the components will immediately begin to corrode If one is lucky he can safe the P2 by bathing it thoroughly within distilled water immediately after getting it out of the salt water, so the salt will get washed out and will not dry on surfaces. After that, bathing in isopropanol can help further. Finally all must dry for days within rice or silicate. All closed but not waterproof components, such as the Naza, the gimbal and the camera must get opened for doing this correctly.

Regards, Gerd
 
Thank you guys. I think I should replace the flooded PCBs to be sure.

NB., My Hero3+ suffered the same fate and had been left to dry in salt before a full tear-down and alcohol clean yesterday - I switched it on with a new battery, and it worked! I wonder what makes it more durable than the Phantom PCBs - probably the lower voltage going through the system, I suppose.
 
Update and question: The beeping is coming from one motor in particular - that must be the bad ESC right?

Thanks
 

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