P2 receiver replacement question

[iowahill]

I damaged the antenna leads on my P2 while replacing the shell after a bad crash. Besides metal fastener inserts that came from "attached", nothing else appeared to be damaged until I broke the antenna wire in disassembly. Since the antenna wires were permanently attached to the receiver board, I had to buy a new replacement. And yes, it is the correct 2.4 Ghz board. I'm not able to link to the receiver, have verified that the receiver is operational and calibrated using the RC Assistant software. I pressed the button on the bottom of the new receiver board in trying to establish a link, but still no go. Question is, the two connectors that come from the NAZA X1 and X2 to the receiver board appear to be identical. X1 is going to the right side connector on the receiver, and X2 is on the left. Could they be swapped, thus causing my problem? I haven't been able to find a diagram that covers the DJI 2.4 receiver, and I don't have the insight to figure this out on my own. Anyone out there have a reasonable answer? Many thanks

 

[iowahill]

Please see the complete edited message, Jason.

 

[jason]

View attachment 37686

I damaged the antenna leads on my P2 while replacing the shell after a bad crash. Besides metal fastener inserts that came from "attached", nothing else appeared to be damaged until I broke the antenna wire in disassembly. Since the antenna wires were permanently attached to the receiver board, I had to buy a new replacement. And yes, it is the correct 2.4 Ghz board. I'm not able to link to the receiver, have verified that the receiver is operational and calibrated using the RC Assistant software. I pressed the button on the bottom of the new receiver board in trying to establish a link, but still no go. Question is, the two connectors that come from the NAZA X1 and X2 to the receiver board appear to be identical. X1 is going to the right side connector on the receiver, and X2 is on the left. Could they be swapped, thus causing my problem? I haven't been able to find a diagram that covers the DJI 2.4 receiver, and I don't have the insight to figure this out on my own. Anyone out there have a reasonable answer? Many thanks

 

[iowahill]

View attachment 37688

Many thanks Jason! Any idea if getting them reversed would cause an issue, or is the receiver a diversity mode? FWIW, I DID get the connectors back correctly. Now I have to figure out why I can't link to the transmitter (flashing yellow LEDs).

 

[jason]

Many thanks Jason! Any idea if getting them reversed would cause an issue, or is the receiver a diversity mode?

Never crossed them. It's always helpful to either tag, photograph or take notes before removing things you have never work with before. Some times lessens are learnt the hard way.

 

[iowahill]

Never crossed them. It's always helpful to either tag, photograph or take notes before removing things you have never work with before. Some times lessens are learnt the hard way.

I looked at the silicon rubber contact patches of the original connectors and original receiver board and was able to be fairly certain that I had it correct. But new ground carries some uncertainty at times. So good to have a knowledgeable group such as this to consult with. Thanks again!

 

[jason]

I looked at the silicon rubber contact patches of the original connectors and original receiver board and was able to be fairly certain that I had it correct. But new ground carries some uncertainty at times. So good to have a knowledgeable group such as this to consult with. Thanks again!

If the receiver board is working correctly you should have a red LED with RC unit off and green when it's turned on but that doesn't mean it's linked. To link keep the RC unit at least three feet away and turned on then push the receiver button down and release it when it starts flashing red.

 

[iowahill]

If the receiver board is working correctly you should have a red LED with RC unit off and green when it's turned on but that doesn't mean it's linked. To link keep the RC unit at least three feet away and turned on then push the receiver button down and release it when it starts flashing red.

The 3' distance item just may be my problem, Jason. I've been trying to link with the bird and xmtr next to each other. I'll give your advice a try in the morning. BTW, we seem to have very similar hardware. I've installed the DataLink 2.4 BT and am anxious to try it out as soon as the bird flies the coop again! I've downloaded the UgCS ground station ap to try out, as well as having my iPad Mini 2 for flight planning. Love the GUI that UgCS has. If the free version works as advertised, I'll probably pop for the $65 upgrade. Thanks again for the help!

 

[jason]

The 3' distance item just may be my problem, Jason. I've been trying to link with the bird and xmtr next to each other. I'll give your advice a try in the morning. BTW, we seem to have very similar hardware. I've installed the DataLink 2.4 BT and am anxious to try it out as soon as the bird flies the coop again! I've downloaded the UgCS ground station ap to try out, as well as having my iPad Mini 2 for flight planning. Love the GUI that UgCS has. If the free version works as advertised, I'll probably pop for the $65 upgrade. Thanks again for the help!

Well were you able to get the RC linked??

 

[iowahill]

Well were you able to get the RC linked??

NO, still have the fashig yellow.

 

[jason]

NO, still have the fashig yellow.

Flashing yellow has nothing to do with linking the RC to the P2. Are you able to start the motors?

 

[iowahill]

Flashing yellow has nothing to do with linking the RC to the P2. Are you able to start the motors?

Just mentioned the flashing yellow as the only action I'm getting on the bird after initialization. No motor response at all. I think I'll just pull all of the electronics and bench test everything. Phantom Assistant also does not see the intelligent battery. I've tried all three of mine, and none has more than maybe 10 or so short flights (20 minutes or less.

 

[jason]

Just mentioned the flashing yellow as the only action I'm getting on the bird after initialization. No motor response at all. I think I'll just pull all of the electronics and bench test everything. Phantom Assistant also does not see the intelligent battery. I've tried all three of mine, and none has more than maybe 10 or so short flights (20 minutes or less.

Check those two spring loaded info pins under the battery terminals if those are damaged could be the problem of no battery recognition.

 

[jason]

Here's what both the upgrade and battery pages will look like if the spring loaded info pins are damaged and not reaching those battery pads.

 

[iowahill]

Here's what both the upgrade and battery pages will look like if the spring loaded info pins are damaged and not reaching those battery pads.
View attachment 37726 View attachment 37727

Very possible that I missed something in seating the connector body on the new shell, though I DID put a meter on the pins and saw a few volts. I'm going to take everything out of the lower shell and do a bench test of the electronics. I unexpectedly found that motor #1 was binding to a stall, most likely more collateral damage from the hard crash onto the metal roof of my shop when I killed the motors after a full-throttle vertical flyaway at takeoff. No damage found on the main board. All components look intact. One thought that has me bothered is that there is a fusing mechanism or component that would blow to protect everything else in the event of a motor or ESC short, but I'm just reaching at this point. New motors will be here in a a couple of days from Amazon, and I should have the disassembly and bench testing ready by then.

If it DOES turn out to be a problem on the main board, do you know if the P2 Vision main board is compatible? Mine is the P2+ Zenmuse H43D version that is about three or four months old, the 2313 motors and newer ESC's.

 

[jason]

Very possible that I missed something in seating the connector body on the new shell, though I DID put a meter on the pins and saw a few volts. I'm going to take everything out of the lower shell and do a bench test of the electronics. I unexpectedly found that motor #1 was binding to a stall, most likely more collateral damage from the hard crash onto the metal roof of my shop when I killed the motors after a full-throttle vertical flyaway at takeoff. No damage found on the main board. All components look intact. One thought that has me bothered is that there is a fusing mechanism or component that would blow to protect everything else in the event of a motor or ESC short, but I'm just reaching at this point. New motors will be here in a a couple of days from Amazon, and I should have the disassembly and bench testing ready by then.

If it DOES turn out to be a problem on the main board, do you know if the P2 Vision main board is compatible? Mine is the P2+ Zenmuse H43D version that is about three or four months old, the 2313 motors and newer ESC's.

The same main board works in all the P2 line. The only difference between the P2 nv v2 and P2 vision+ v3 is the added wifi module.

 

[iowahill]

You are a GEM, Jason! But I'm not the only one who has told you that! Many thanks.