One motor idles slower - ESC calibration?

[JamesRPurdon]

After a single set of flights and a large storage period, I find that one motor turns more slowly than the others during idle and motor tests, preventing flight of my FC40.

Fellow quadcopter enthusiasts suggested that the ESCs need calibration (something done on homebrew craft I guess), but I see nothing in software to suggest this is possible (lots of other calibration I see though).

Is this even possible? I've ordered a new motor and an ESC, but if it's something that can be corrected by software, I'd like to know.

 

[RoyVa]

No software calibrations on the ESC or motor. The motor is a fixed max rpm and it speed is handled by the motor controller telling it when and what to do. The motor controller is the ESC and it is controlled by the main board getting its data and info from the NAZA and other sensors. The only thing that can normally be calibrated is the IMU and the compass. Changing the motor and ESC should correct your issue.

 

[JamesRPurdon]

Thank you for confirming what I suspected - replacing the motor got it back in the air again. I did run into an issue during the repair though, the solder used to attach the motor wires to the ESC would not easily melt with either of my soldering irons. I ended up clipping the wires as close to the ESC as possible and soldering the new wires to the fragments that stuck out of the balls of solder that remained.

Has anyone else run into this? What soldering irons do you use for motor replacement?

 

[RoyVa]

Yep they are a little stubborn sometimes. I use a Weller duel heat gun. The pencil irons that are 30 watt just don't heat it enough. 60 watt is tight but will work the best are the 100 watt style. They can be had for under $20.00. So to really answer your question any 80 watt or better work well. Clipping the wires and solder to them are ok to as long as they are insulated properly. A lot of movement and vibration is possible when flying.

 

[JamesRPurdon]

Thanks for the response and advice!

 

[Avalon90]

Thank you for confirming what I suspected - replacing the motor got it back in the air again. I did run into an issue during the repair though, the solder used to attach the motor wires to the ESC would not easily melt with either of my soldering irons. I ended up clipping the wires as close to the ESC as possible and soldering the new wires to the fragments that stuck out of the balls of solder that remained.

Has anyone else run into this? What soldering irons do you use for motor replacement?

Hi. you can solder the motor leads in the ESC board using a flat tip in a pencil type soldering unit.

 

[Yande]

Yeah, I swapped out my motors and ESC's with my recently purchased (EBay) 60W SOLDERING IRON STATION for around $AUD45. It works a treat, een on the Phantom Origials solders. The unit allows interchangeable tips, so I bought a blade Tip, as it came with a Pointed One. Perhaps my favourite tool on the bench. Haviing said that, after a bad crash, I had to replace 4 motors. In doing so, i managed to tear 2 solder tabs of 2 seperate ESC's, hence making them useless, as nothing will solder to plastic! Be careful removing the wires from an ESC, otherwise the solder tab will come off the ESC. Now all is replaced, but something is wrong, Phantom will not fly. Wants to head one way. Motors, wires and blades correctly insitu. Checked, changed and checked and changed again.. Ideas? Will not take off, and when I hold it by hand, it wants to move up and to the right.