New Standard 1000M Range(Easily)

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All I see is poor range example so I just thought I would throw mine out there.

I got mine about a week ago. I live in a smaller town(right int he middle of it) and from home I get about 300M range before my video feed starts to go out.

This morning i took it out to the high school which is on the outskirts of town and sent it out into the corn fields 990 meters and had full RC bars and 4 out 5 wifi video bars.

I was really starting to get nervous about this things actual capability from flying it so much in town and starting to regret not buying the advanced but after that test I am happy. even 300M is plenty.

I will someday put an antenna mod on it when they are out and fully tested.
 
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Is a good flight Nstrong . Havn't flown my new one but 7 times and checked distance in a slightly noisy area and got 2843' at 200' atti and lost FPV and went into RTH . Really not bad to be that low .
Welcome to the forum :)
 
That's very good in moderate interference areas. I top out at about 1000feet before I lose my fpv. My RC is always full though.
 
But here in the UK the limit in the app is fixed at 500m....or can you alter it to 1000m as it wont let you type more than 500 in....
 
But here in the UK the limit in the app is fixed at 500m....or can you alter it to 1000m as it wont let you type more than 500 in....
Simon in the P2's you could adjust that back to FCC mode by turning that screw in the hole on the bottom right on the back of the TX .
Now this P3S is new to me and I'm already in FCC mode . Now from just what I have read all this is controlled in the Go App now .
I just compared my TX's and that screw is missing in my 3 so that must be correct .
How to get around that and pretty sure you can I just don't know and haven't read enough from UK flyers with these to know of it .
Yet
 
Yeah "Dirkclod" I know about the screw as I have tweeked mine the same :) but on the 3 its controlled via the GPS location so knows im in the EU and the "App" then restricts my range automatically - !!
 
Yeah "Dirkclod" I know about the screw as I have tweeked mine the same :) but on the 3 its controlled via the GPS location so knows im in the EU and restricts my range automatically - !!
OK I see in your signature what you already have Simon ...my bad,sorry . :) Let me try again ,As to
can you alter it to 1000m
I haven't seen it done yet .
Good luck and do post how when you figure it out . :)
 
NStrong,

I have done the TX mod with the DBS01 on my P3S. I believe only a few other people have (at least on this forum). Thankfully, I had alot of help and it really wasn't that hard. It was a fun project. The only real modification that you need to do is to the DBS01 bracket itself. I have some pics posted, and there is a huge range improvement now.

Pics are posted here:

Phantom 3 STANDARD antenna upgrade | Page 10 | DJI Phantom Forum
 
Interesting. I recently purchased my P2S and had roughly 167M of range in a nearby cemetery (in the city). I opted to return the and thankfully they replaced mine.

Just got the replacement earlier and will do test later. Now I think the issue of the previous one was more of interference and nothing to do with a defect.
 
I just received my advanced today in the mail. I have only tested it out in the city but there is definitely a lot less interference. i took it out 500 meters with no loss of bars at all.
 
If I lose WiFi signal on the dji app while streaming, will RTH activate if I hit Switch S2? What's the best action to take if iIlose signal while streaming and the quad isn't in sight? Prayer?
 
Yes it will. It will also auto return if you lose control signal. Make sure you have your RTH altitude set higher than anything in the vicinity though.
 
Yes it will. It will also auto return if you lose control signal. Make sure you have your RTH altitude set higher than anything in the vicinity though.

This morning I went a short flight in a field behind my house. I lifted off in front of my house at about 50ft and as soon as it flew out of sight behind the trees I got the Weak remote signal warning. Almost panicked, switched to Atti mode on Switch S1 then manually climbed altitude until I could see it then flew it back manually. I see videos of guys going almost 1/2 a mile but i I lose signal quickly. Did i not climb at a high enough altitude in the beginning?
 
Chris you need to keep your TX and RX in LOS of each other or you are gonna lose signal .
Stay higher than anything in-between the 2 . If you gonna go out do as happy said and be sure RTH is higher than anything
in your path back .
 
Chris you need to keep your TX and RX in LOS of each other or you are gonna lose signal .
Stay higher than anything in-between the 2 . If you gonna go out do as happy said and be sure RTH is higher than anything
in your path back .

When you say LOS do you mean a direct line between tx and rx? Can trees really disrupt the signal that much?
 
When you say LOS do you mean a direct line between tx and rx? Can trees really disrupt the signal that much?
Yes . Have lost signal going around cedar trees .And yes that's what I meant with LOS . I go out and don't see my quad but it see's my TX .
Nothing in-between .
 
I traded my Standard in for an Advanced and just got the Advanced yesterday. The biggest difference is flying in high interference areas(lots of other Wifi Signals). The standard would max out at about 800 Feet before I would lose FPV. Controller signal was always good but would constantly lose my FPV at about that range in the city. When I took it out to the country I was able to get it to the 1000 meters that it should pretty easily.

So far with the advanced Ive only flown it in the city and haven't even attempted to max the range. Ive taken it 3500 feet and still had full bars on both and didn't want to try to go any further. The signal seems to be more able to go through trees, power lines and whatever else there is that interferes way better than the standard. If i do start to lose bars its usually for the RC instead of the FPV.

There are a bunch of little differences that aren't pointed out in the two. One that I really like is that you can choose your 2.4ghz channel on the advanced if you wish as well as see the traffic per channel. With the standard you are stuck with auto channel and cannot monitor traffic.

If you are having a week signal with the Standard you just need to get out away from Wifi signals and keep a direct LOS without any obstructions. When I went 1000 meters with it, It was over some corn fields, I could no longer see the phantom but I know there were no obstructions.
 
Nstrong,

I almost with I would have traded the P3S in for the P3A, but oh well. I did the DBS01 mod so now its much better.......it actually probably hits further distances than the P3A would around my area, but then again I could have modded that too. I still need to try it out in the country and see how far I can really go with this mod, where like you mentioned, there are very few areas of interference. I heard the Lightbridge is pretty cool, would love to test that up against mine with the mod.
 
Nstrong,

I almost with I would have traded the P3S in for the P3A, but oh well. I did the DBS01 mod so now its much better.......it actually probably hits further distances than the P3A would around my area, but then again I could have modded that too. I still need to try it out in the country and see how far I can really go with this mod, where like you mentioned, there are very few areas of interference. I heard the Lightbridge is pretty cool, would love to test that up against mine with the mod.
Any good walk-throughs available that you've come across for installing DBS01 on a Standard? I'd like to try it, but I'm too scared to without some kind of instructions.
 
I wish I could have created a tutorial, but honestly I'm not very good at that. I did post alot of pictures though to help aid in the process. Its really not that hard once you start tackling it, you just need to modify that DBS01 bracket. Getting the controller open is pretty easy, and you'll need a dremel to cut off the old antennae and modify that opening for the SMA connector to fit (if thats where you want to put it). You'll also need a drill, bits, hobby knife, and needle nose pliers helps. I took those U.fl connectors off with that, you just have to be very careful............also careful when scraping the silicon off the old u.fl's as well.
 
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