Motor Doesn't Move At All ... all new parts

[Taylor]

Searched all over the interwebz and no one seems to have this exact same problem.
Had a small crash (again) but I can't fix it this time.

After the crash one motor would do the jarring back and forth instead of going full on. The LEDs under were all looking fine so I figured it was the motor (this is a common problem I've seen).

I swapped in a new motor, then it didn't move at all (that's new to me).
I swapped a new ESC in, same problem.
I put the old motor in with the new ESC, same problem.

I have swapped out a bad ESC before and installed new motors before but this is the first time I've seen this.

All motors are 2312
All ESC's are v2.0

 

[Hughie]

Searched all over the interwebz and no one seems to have this exact same problem.
Had a small crash (again) but I can't fix it this time.

After the crash one motor would do the jarring back and forth instead of going full on. The LEDs under were all looking fine so I figured it was the motor (this is a common problem I've seen).

I swapped in a new motor, then it didn't move at all (that's new to me).
I swapped a new ESC in, same problem.
I put the old motor in with the new ESC, same problem.

I have swapped out a bad ESC before and installed new motors before but this is the first time I've seen this.

All motors are 2312
All ESC's are v2.0

That is odd. Especially if you changed the motor before you changed the ESC. If the motor was bad it could take out a new ESC, so if you changed the ESC before you changed the motor... you get my drift anyway.

There are a couple of things you could try. IIRC the PWM signals are fed from the main board, so you can eliminate Naza and the main board by swapping the ESC/motor pair with a those in another arm and see if the fault moves. Dont forget to swap the signal cable which connects the ESC to the main board too.

The other thing you could do is a continuity test on the motor with it disconnected. Check there is continuity between each phase and each of the the other two; and check that each wire is not a short circuit to the motor casing.

Finally. Are you using standard motor screws. One problem which has happened is where longer screws (e.g. from prop guards) have been used to fit into the motor. I have a feeling that the 2312s have some way of defeating this, but cant be sure.

 

[Taylor]

... you can eliminate Naza and the main board by swapping the ESC/motor pair with a those in another arm and see if the fault moves. Dont forget to swap the signal cable which connects the ESC to the main board too.

... you could do is a continuity test on the motor with it disconnected. Check there is continuity between each phase and each of the the other two; and check that each wire is not a short circuit to the motor casing.

Are you using standard motor screws?

Appreciate your response.
Mostly what I'm getting from this is that it's beyond my knowledge right now.
I am still using the standard screws since I haven't gotten my prop guards (yet).

 

[SteveMann]

Do the motors turn easily by hand?

I have a set of DJI overpriced prop guards (never used) that you can have for the cost of postage.

 

[Taylor]

All 6 motors that I have turn the same (by hand).
Appreciate the offer on the prop guards but I ordered a set last night.

 

[CityZen]

If a motor just judders back and forth instead of spinning, that's a sign of a broken motor coil.
You should measure the resistance across each of the 3 coils (by measuring the resistance between each pair of wires). They should all the be about the same. If one reading is about double, that means that the corresponding coil is broken.

 

[Hughie]

That behaviour for a motor with a damaged winding is very similar to how a damaged ESC behaves. The reason is that when the cause of the ESC failure is the MOSFET for one of the phases (which it often is), the effect you will see is that it behaves as if one of the windings has gone.

However, always better to start with suspecting the motor and do a con-check of that, rather than change the ESC and find the motor was the problem and it has taken out a second ESC.

In my experience with Phantom 2s, motor winding failures are a lot less common than ESC failures.

 

[CityZen]

Motor winding failures tend to happen mainly when there is physical intrusion into the motor, such as when using too-long screws or sometimes during a crash, or when the external wires are pulled too much. So yes, if none of that happened, then the ESC is more likely to be suspect.

 

[jason]

Have any of you paid attention or you all to busy to read that he has tried new motors and ESC modules.
Now to answer those who think he should sand the enamel coating off the copper wire. The only on those motors are the winding as the wires coming out motors is aluminum and sure the hell isn't coated in enamel.

Taylor's biggest problem is he new to soldering and he admit that this beyond his knowledge right now. Of course most of you are trying be helpful but you are dealing with someone who is completely new to all of this.

Guess the bottom line is if do not know answer don't offer.

 

[Hughie]

You are right jason I dont know what the cause is.... because there is more than one possibility. What I offered was some advice on how to fault find and eliminate possible candidates which were not at fault. I dont think I suggested much which involved skills he had not already demonstrated.

Not sure what you mean about sanding the wire ? That is news to me.

 

[IflyinWY]

Hey Taylor,

Welcome to the forum, enjoy the show, it is funny as all get out.

 

[Hughie]

Yeah man. Welcome.

 

[MrC]

Have any of you paid attention or you all to busy to read that he has tried new motors and ESC modules.
Now to answer those who think he should sand the enamel coating off the copper wire. The only on those motors are the winding as the wires coming out motors is aluminum and sure the hell isn't coated in enamel.

Taylor's biggest problem is he new to soldering and he admit that this beyond his knowledge right now. Of course most of you are trying be helpful but you are dealing with someone who is completely new to all of this.

Guess the bottom line is if do not know answer don't offer.

I thought 2312 motors had copper wires coated in non conductive laquer/enamel or whatever? If he didn't sand this back on the new motor wires then this could be his problem. Not sure where you are getting aluminum and not coated from?

OP, can you post a pic of your new motor wires. Try sanding the last few mm on them before soldering.

 

[N017RW]

Have any of you paid attention or you all to busy to read that he has tried new motors and ESC modules.
Now to answer those who think he should sand the enamel coating off the copper wire. The only on those motors are the winding as the wires coming out motors is aluminum and sure the hell isn't coated in enamel.

Taylor's biggest problem is he new to soldering and he admit that this beyond his knowledge right now. Of course most of you are trying be helpful but you are dealing with someone who is completely new to all of this.

Guess the bottom line is if do not know answer don't offer.

Not sure what you mean about aluminum wires coming out of the motors???

It is not possible to solder to aluminum.

Please elaborate.

Thanks in advance.

 

[n2aub44]

Have any of you paid attention or you all to busy to read that he has tried new motors and ESC modules.
Now to answer those who think he should sand the enamel coating off the copper wire. The only on those motors are the winding as the wires coming out motors is aluminum and sure the hell isn't coated in enamel.

Taylor's biggest problem is he new to soldering and he admit that this beyond his knowledge right now. Of course most of you are trying be helpful but you are dealing with someone who is completely new to all of this.

Guess the bottom line is if do not know answer don't offer.

thanks Jason have a phantom 3 standard spent hours trying to find out why it was beeping loud after the new firmware update and every loud beeping report was firmware problem HAY GUESS WHAT YOU GET THE LOUD BEEPING WITH A BAD MOTOR. so order a new motor and try to connect it with solder and it just rolls right off try different solder same thing ok so great idea used butt connectors and wamo i know not a word but beeping gone music to my ears until I fire it up and no motor spin. then come across your post about the coating on the wires and began to think about the solder rolling off turns out you are the only one on hear to save the day sanded the wire make the connections and WAMO. thanks Jason

 

[DanMan32]

Best to unsolder/solder to the board. Then you don't have to worry about the enamel.