Jello Effect Cured!

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Greetings,

I found a way to remove all instances of the "jello effect" from my video footage this evening. I did not use new props nor velcro nor any buffer between the mount and the screws on the Phantom. My solution:

I replaced my HD Hero camera with a Go Pro Hero 3 White Edition. I flew the Phantom at the beach during windy conditions (12 mph winds), and there were no shaky images! I just thought I would offer a positive contribution to this group, which has helped me so much already.

Best wishes,

Fpvpilot
 
Fpvpilot said:
Greetings,

I found a way to remove all instances of the "jello effect" from my video footage this evening. I did not use new props nor velcro nor any buffer between the mount and the screws on the Phantom. My solution:

I replaced my HD Hero camera with a Go Pro Hero 3 White Edition. I flew the Phantom at the beach during windy conditions (12 mph winds), and there were no shaky images! I just thought I would offer a positive contribution to this group, which has helped me so much already.

Best wishes,

Fpvpilot

Hmm,. not so sure if just getting a new camera will reduce jello, but certain camera's and lighting conditions can help prevent it.

But jello will occur if you have vibrations, even with the best cameras.
 
Gizmo3000 said:
Fpvpilot said:
Greetings,

I found a way to remove all instances of the "jello effect" from my video footage this evening. I did not use new props nor velcro nor any buffer between the mount and the screws on the Phantom. My solution:

I replaced my HD Hero camera with a Go Pro Hero 3 White Edition. I flew the Phantom at the beach during windy conditions (12 mph winds), and there were no shaky images! I just thought I would offer a positive contribution to this group, which has helped me so much already.

Best wishes,

Fpvpilot

Hmm,. not so sure if just getting a new camera will reduce jello, but certain camera's and lighting conditions can help prevent it.

But jello will occur if you have vibrations, even with the best cameras.

I will study the issue some more. All I know at this point is that my problem is solved. :)
 
Shaky images and jello are 2 separate things, Jello is the rolling motion of video caused by vibrations and a rolling shutter camera. This produces wavy video most noticeable with minimal camera shake and high frequency vibrations in bright light, severe shake will also produce jello but then you get both camera shake and jello which many people dont seem to be able to distinguish and this is a real mess if you get that.

Shakiness of footage is more down to how smooth you fly and if you or the phantom is making corrections fighting wind and you dont have a gimbal it will be shaky just like the phantom will be. But you could fly completely still in a hover on a very bright day at 30p and get some pretty nasty jello if the props/motors are out of balance and or your mounting method is transferring all these vibrations to the camera.

There are many ways to help overcome jello and the best is a good gimbal and mount, you can also just use some form of anti jello mounting method and to help hide jello in bright conditions a ND filter works great and I use these along with a jello mount and balanced props for pretty decent results. ND filters reduce shutter speeds and though they dont cure jello the slower shutter speeds turn the rolling jello effect into a slightly blurred frame, all the other options are methods of eather keeping the camera from shaking or isolating it from motor vibrations in the body.

Id love to see your videos before and after getting the hero3 white edition that cured your jello, Unless they started sneaking a global shutter into these ;) Im sorry to say but that is not the reason for your reduced jello. You may be using a better mount or shot video in lower light at higher frame rates but unfortunately a hero3 white has the same rolling shutter type sensor as all other cameras that suffer from the jello effect.
 
martcerv said:
There are many ways to help overcome jello and the best is a good gimbal and mount, you can also just use some form of anti jello mounting method and to help hide jello in bright conditions a ND filter works great and I use these along with a jello mount and balanced props for pretty decent results. ND filters reduce shutter speeds and though they dont cure jello the slower shutter speeds turn the rolling jello effect into a slightly blurred frame, all the other options are methods of eather keeping the camera from shaking or isolating it from motor vibrations in the body.

I have both a Black and a White edition, and have flown them both with no apparent benefit of the White Edition. Also, the White only shoots at 30 fps vs. 60 fps (if you want 1080p), so you can't slow-mo the video to smooth out motion artifacts as well.

I agree with what martcerv said about the subject, but the partial quote is about the use of an ND filter. malrtcerv - where do you get your filters, please? I bought one through Amazon, and it produces garbage, unless you are looking to buy a filter made for the purpose of blurring the image. What I think we are discussing with respect to ND filters is the interference like horizontal blackish lines I see when the lens is pointed in the direction of the sun together with even modest higher frequency vibration.

Anyway, careful balancing of the props and lack of wind and gusts has eliminated most of the "jello" for me, but I need someone's recommendation on a satisfactory ND filter. I don't want to throw money at various filters until I stumble on a good one.

Thanks!
 
t I need someone's recommendation on a satisfactory ND filter. I don't want to throw money at various filters until I stumble on a good one.


Snake River Prototyping.com SRP makes several blur fix adapters for either the camera inside the waterproof housiing,
or in naked form. they also sell all kinds of filters, including Marumi ND4X and ND8X filters.

Bill, is really great to deal with. I believe they are going to be coming out with a FPV setup for the Phantom soon too.
 
I got my ND filters and Blurfix's from Snake River Prototyping, I have some Marumi and Tiffen ND filters which I have been using depending on light levels for some pretty good results. I had used the original Blurfix from SRP with all my underwater stuff since the hero1 through to hero3 black so I have been using their gear for quite a while now and have been very happy with it. Bill is a great guy to deal with and the advantage of the blurfix adapter on the hero3 is you can use any standard filters with it but need low profile ones to not get the filter frame in shot for wide modes. I like to try a few different ones but in the end I usually just stick with those sold by SRP as they only sell the ones that have been proven to work well.

Here is a pick of my current phantom setup showing the naked 52mm blurfix and a Marumi ND filter which is my usual goto setup in average light but use the ND8 on very bright days or the equivalent tiffen filters which I have been having a little play with recently as Bill sent me a few filters to try out on the Phantom as they have also sent me some gear to test at times. In low light I tend to go without but its something I have been trying to see what works best and when.

uxuu.jpg


This is my second anti jello mount as my original from VGE broke in a crash but I wasn't entirely happy with it and had to mod it to reduce camera shake at speed. These 8 inch carbon fiber graupner copies lack the lift of the stock DJI's and I haven't got around to modifying the stock props to work with my new motors yet so I have been flying it without my camera and FPV setup recently. I have ordered a few other props hoping to find something well balanced and a little stiffer but so far my carbon testing hasnt improved on a well balanced set of stock DJI props.

Im happy with everything in my setup except the screen and current props, the screen is pretty poor in daylight and so I have ordered a full sunhood as the one I have does very little, the image is ok out of direct sunlight so I hope a better hood will make it more useable. This one I got cheap just to see if Id prefer a screen or goggles and its hard to find a good screen that doesnt blue screen and is viewable in full sunlight, when I can see the image the screen is great so I will persist with it or a better one for a while I think.
 
martcerv said:
I got my ND filters and Blurfix's from Snake River Prototyping, I have some Marumi and Tiffen ND filters which I have been using depending on light levels for some pretty good results. I had used the original Blurfix from SRP with all my underwater stuff since the hero1 through to hero3 black so I have been using their gear for quite a while now and have been very happy with it. Bill is a great guy to deal with and the advantage of the blurfix adapter on the hero3 is you can use any standard filters with it but need low profile ones to not get the filter frame in shot for wide modes. I like to try a few different ones but in the end I usually just stick with those sold by SRP as they only sell the ones that have been proven to work well.

Here is a pick of my current phantom setup showing the naked 52mm blurfix and a Marumi ND filter which is my usual goto setup in average light but use the ND8 on very bright days or the equivalent tiffen filters which I have been having a little play with recently as Bill sent me a few filters to try out on the Phantom as they have also sent me some gear to test at times. In low light I tend to go without but its something I have been trying to see what works best and when.

uxuu.jpg


This is my second anti jello mount as my original from VGE broke in a crash but I wasn't entirely happy with it and had to mod it to reduce camera shake at speed. These 8 inch carbon fiber graupner copies lack the lift of the stock DJI's and I haven't got around to modifying the stock props to work with my new motors yet so I have been flying it without my camera and FPV setup recently. I have ordered a few other props hoping to find something well balanced and a little stiffer but so far my carbon testing hasnt improved on a well balanced set of stock DJI props.

Im happy with everything in my setup except the screen and current props, the screen is pretty poor in daylight and so I have ordered a full sunhood as the one I have does very little, the image is ok out of direct sunlight so I hope a better hood will make it more useable. This one I got cheap just to see if Id prefer a screen or goggles and its hard to find a good screen that doesnt blue screen and is viewable in full sunlight, when I can see the image the screen is great so I will persist with it or a better one for a while I think.
So you can attach the filter without the case?

E


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
martcerv said:
Shaky images and jello are 2 separate things, Jello is the rolling motion of video caused by vibrations and a rolling shutter camera. This produces wavy video most noticeable with minimal camera shake and high frequency vibrations in bright light, severe shake will also produce jello but then you get both camera shake and jello which many people dont seem to be able to distinguish and this is a real mess if you get that.

Shakiness of footage is more down to how smooth you fly and if you or the phantom is making corrections fighting wind and you dont have a gimbal it will be shaky just like the phantom will be. But you could fly completely still in a hover on a very bright day at 30p and get some pretty nasty jello if the props/motors are out of balance and or your mounting method is transferring all these vibrations to the camera.

There are many ways to help overcome jello and the best is a good gimbal and mount, you can also just use some form of anti jello mounting method and to help hide jello in bright conditions a ND filter works great and I use these along with a jello mount and balanced props for pretty decent results. ND filters reduce shutter speeds and though they dont cure jello the slower shutter speeds turn the rolling jello effect into a slightly blurred frame, all the other options are methods of eather keeping the camera from shaking or isolating it from motor vibrations in the body.

Id love to see your videos before and after getting the hero3 white edition that cured your jello, Unless they started sneaking a global shutter into these ;) Im sorry to say but that is not the reason for your reduced jello. You may be using a better mount or shot video in lower light at higher frame rates but unfortunately a hero3 white has the same rolling shutter type sensor as all other cameras that suffer from the jello effect.

I will upload the relevant videos by the end of this week. I think my success may have been partially due to the lower light conditions.
 
edunwody said:
So you can attach the filter without the case?

They do have a naked 52mm now and also a regular 55mm and 58mm in the works if not out yet I think for the housing. I used the housing and 55mm in the beginning when I was learning to fly the phantom but since I have used the naked to reduce a little weight. Myabe over water I will use the housing just incase to save the camera at least in a water landing. The only thing if you want to use the naked blurfix you can't use the DJI mount because it has the piece of plastic in front of the camera that doesn't let you fully seat the blurfix and so you need to use the GoPro frame or some other mounting method that doesnt have a piece in front of the camera.

This video shows the blurfix3 SO that fits over the housing which is the other option but the housing is a little heavy and I tend to prefer to fly naked these days with all the other gear I have loaded my phantom with :lol:

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u73BNgs8U6c[/youtube]

I will do up a video showing the naked filters at some point probably along with all the rest of my phantom gear once I have figured out what works and what doesnt for me. Im still experimenting but the SRP stuff does work well its just some of the others I havent quite sorted yet.

I nearly lost a gopro when one of my jello mount balls nearly tore in half after some fast flying but these filter adapters sit on very well and I have yet to have one fall off flying or diving. If anything the naked gets an even firmer hold then the one for the housing but the housing one still stays on even flying flat out in the phantom.
 
Fpvpilot said:
I will upload the relevant videos by the end of this week. I think my success may have been partially due to the lower light conditions.

I think that may have been the case which is the same as using a ND filter in brighter light to slow down the shutter speeds. Jello is a real bugger and I hope the next gopro camera comes with a global shutter and jello will never be an issue again. The footage from the DJI gimbal and a couple others have been pretty impressive I think and especially the DJI one looks to have pretty much eliminated it as its very smooth, I can't wait to get one of those as it will make it so much easier to shoot very smooth video.
 
Please disregard my first post. It appears that the jello-effect still occurs with the White Edition, too. I just flew the Phantom in daylight, and the jello-effect was very evident. :( It looks like I will be investing in a prop balancer. Which prop balancer would be the best choice?
 
Like others have said, you need a good ISO mount.

Higher frame per second rates will also minimize things for you.

Good Luck

D
 
Fpvpilot said:
Please disregard my first post. It appears that the jello-effect still occurs with the White Edition, too. I just flew the Phantom in daylight, and the jello-effect was very evident. :( It looks like I will be investing in a prop balancer. Which prop balancer would be the best choice?

I have the Du Bro balancer and it works well, I think its well regarded as being one of the better ones by most which is why I got it. It has given me good results so check those out and there are also plenty of videos online to show how to do it properly.
 
Fpvpilot said:
Please disregard my first post. It appears that the jello-effect still occurs with the White Edition, too. I just flew the Phantom in daylight, and the jello-effect was very evident. :( It looks like I will be investing in a prop balancer. Which prop balancer would be the best choice?

filters, mounts and shutter speed all help
but it all starts with well balanced props, and the DuBor is the one to get, and will last a lifetime.

..then because vibrations are still hard to combat, def look into the VGE mount or similar.
 
Gizmo3000 said:
Fpvpilot said:
Please disregard my first post. It appears that the jello-effect still occurs with the White Edition, too. I just flew the Phantom in daylight, and the jello-effect was very evident. :( It looks like I will be investing in a prop balancer. Which prop balancer would be the best choice?

filters, mounts and shutter speed all help
but it all starts with well balanced props, and the DuBor is the one to get, and will last a lifetime.

..then because vibrations are still hard to combat, def look into the VGE mount or similar.


Thank you both for recommending the Du Bro balancer. I will check it out. I ordered the VGE GoPro Anti-jello Vibration Isolator Carbon Fiber Mount this afternoon, so I think I have a good mount on the way.
 
Well I just figured out that my GoPro Hero Silver isn't going to cut it.
Received my Phantom yesterday and have flown it about 5 times so far. Really like it by the way.
After I got the hang of it I strapped on my Hero 3 Silver. 1080 at 30fps. Can you say Jello! Good lord, it was terrible. I tried again with 720p at 60fps and it was a lot better but the image was flat and I can't stand the wide aspect.
Thought I was saving money with already having a Silver Hero 3 but it looks like I will need to upgrade to a Black edition.

Thoughts before I purchase appreciated. Will the quality be worth the price point.

Thanks guys.

E


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The Silver is pretty much a repackaged hero2 and I found the black a big enough upgrade that I dont use the hero2's much any more if at all. They are actually the cams I give to family and friends if they ever want to borrow one, pluses you will get in the black is 1080p60 in wide medium and narrow modes. Though narrow still isn't as good image wise as the medium and wide its much more useable then in the hero2 and so most likely silver. For me the black was well worth the upgrade from the hero2's but main downside is some people get stability issues mostly due to SD cards not being up to the specs they are supposed to be, also the battery life sucks pretty bad on the black vs hero2 and I assume the silver should be similar to the 2.

Getting everything sorted you can shoot in 30p using a gopro with well balanced props, motors, good mount and for bright days a nd filter. As I have been surprised at some of the images I have got out of mine without a gimble in calm conditions with smoother flying. You pretty much need to use every trick in the book though so it takes a bit of flying time and trial and error to find what works and what doesn't but once sorted some videos can be quite nice.

Here is a video I shot with the black in calm conditions using all the jello fixes I mentioned. This also has software stabilization added to give it the final touch though it wasn't terrible before this was added and that version is also on my channel. This is shot in 2.7k30 which is my preferred mode but if you haven't quite got the balance and mount sorted 60p may work better.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HkjNGQ04Q8c[/youtube]

I have shot a much better video elsewhere then this which I am just finishing the edit on hopefully over the weekend if I get some time. I think the phantom is RTF out of the box but not really ready to shoot decent video, this needs some mods and practice to get right but if your getting jello in the silver this will be the same in any other camera with a cmos sensor. Frame rates can hide this a bit but I think step one should be balancing props and a good mount before anything else.
 
Great video.
I may need to practice more since I just got the phantom.
Going to a Black H3 may also help.
Thanks for the quick response. I can tell now that this is going to be a money drainer for a whole.
I pretty much use FCP7 for my high end work but will be using FCPX for editing GoPro footage. It has some built in stabilization filters that work well.

I just need to slow down and learn to fly it. This is my first entry into flying RC. I've been flying fixed wings and real helicopters for 30 years. This is very different.

E


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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