installing a H3-3D on a P2...

[q8f1]

Hi,

I've searched forums, watched vids on youtube, downloaded DJI instruction manuals etc etc. And I know there has been problems and the fittings instructions seem to change over time.

So here's my question/s, I'm changing my H3-2D for a H3-3D on a newer P2, how easy is it? and are any tips or tricks?

Thanks for any help, cheers Mark

Ps. sorry for posting on 2 forums, but more brains the better, thx again.

 

[Alec]

https://www.youtube.com/embed/yOoU-RftvV8

I recently assembled my new P2 and H3 3D gimbal and used the video above. It's pretty much straight forward. Just double check that all 4 rubber dampers are fully seated before each flight. I think the real challenge (it's pretty tight inside) comes when you internally mount the iOSD, CAM bus & video interference board. On the upside there are plenty of helpful videos. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBlrZpWNnhs

 

[OI Photography]

If all your FPV gear and everything else were already wired up when the H3-2D was installed, swapping to the -3D is a piece of cake...just mount it with the screws and plug in the same 8-strand cable you had connected to the other one.

You'll want to make sure the top motor on the H3-3D doesn't rub on the bottom of the battery inside the shell. It shouldn't but some people have run in to that. Using a nylon washers between the top plate and the body can fix that it if you need to.

 

[q8f1]

Alec; many thx for your reply, yes I seen and bookmarked those videos, very useful info, thanks.

OI Photography; Thanks also for your help.
"If all your FPV gear and everything else were already wired up when the H3-2D was installed, swapping to the -3D is a piece of cake...just mount it with the screws and plug in the same 8-strand cable you had connected to the other one."

***** Yes thx, all FPV, iOSD stuff is already installed and working with a BP monitor. The only difference being the interference board.

"You'll want to make sure the top motor on the H3-3D doesn't rub on the bottom of the battery inside the shell. It shouldn't but some people have run in to that. Using a nylon washers between the top plate and the body can fix that it if you need to."

***** OK thx, sound advice and great tip, thx again.

One more question, on one of the vids I've watched it appears the rear one of 2 opposing plastic "damping pins"? stop the full movement of the gimbal, and seem to be replaced with a cable tie. Is this normal?

Thanks again and safe flying. Cheers Mark

 

[DesertFlyer53]

One more question, on one of the vids I've watched it appears the rear one of 2 opposing plastic "damping pins"? stop the full movement of the gimbal, and seem to be replaced with a cable tie. Is this normal?

Thanks again and safe flying. Cheers Mark

It actually only does that when the gimbal is powered off. The yaw axis is limited when the gimbal is powered up, so it doesn't hit that retaining pin. Not to worry.

 

[q8f1]

Ok, excellent thx. Cheers Mark