grainy video.

[mark191]

Hi all,just been out for my first short night flight when I got home I transferred the video from my tablet,but I don't think I had the settings right on my phantom 3 standard,can anybody tell me what the best settings are for night videos many thanks in advance.

 

[Fly Dawg]

Did you check the video on the SD card? The tablets versions are a different resolution and set.

 

[mark191]

Hi Fly Dawg I have just tried what you said,its a little better but still not great,but thanks for the quick reply I will keep reading up about the settings.

 

[With The Birds]

Hi Fly Dawg I have just tried what you said,its a little better but still not great,but thanks for the quick reply I will keep reading up about the settings.

The only option you have setting wise if to maintain the lowest ISO possible for a shutter speed at or close to twice your frame rate AND to avoid under exposure.

 

[mark191]

how do I find those settings for video ?

 

[LarBear360]

how do I find those settings for video ?

Mark, you can adjust your settings in the app. First and foremost, you must be powered up and connected to the AC. Select video and then open the menu.

The higher the ISO, the more grain. Set your aprature as wide open as possible, then adjust the ISO until you get the exposure you need.

 

[mark191]

Sorry Larbear,im not very clued up with iso and stuff like that could you put it in laymans terms for me please cheers.

 

[With The Birds]

Mark, you can adjust your settings in the app. First and foremost, you must be powered up and connected to the AC. Select video and then open the menu.

The higher the ISO, the more grain. Set your aprature as wide open as possible, then adjust the ISO until you get the exposure you need.

He won’t have to worry about the aperture, it’s fixed a f2.8.

 

[LarBear360]

He won’t have to worry about the aperture, it’s fixed a f2.8.

Duh, what was I thinking? I meant to say Shutter.

So with the P3S the exposure is adjusted two ways; shutter and ISO. The ISO (International Standardization Organization) indicates the light sensitivity of the camera.The lower the ISO number, the less sensitive it is to the light, while a higher ISO number increases the sensitivity of your camera. The component within your camera that can change sensitivity is called “image sensor.”

100 is as low as you can go and is pretty much the default for outdoors. From there everything doubles; 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200, 6400. For nighttime video, you will need to go higher. 3200 is about the top of the range though some cameras can go to 6400.

Here are some screen shots that may help. You can open the menu under the red record button and then adjust everything from there. I would play with the shutter speed first then ISO. The faster the shutter speed, the less light will get in. 25 is as slow as you can get I think. You can refer to the EV (Evaluation) Meter at the bottom for more guidance.

If all else fails, try AUTO!

 

[With The Birds]

Duh, what was I thinking? I meant to say Shutter.

So with the P3S the exposure is adjusted two ways; shutter and ISO. The ISO (International Standardization Organization) indicates the light sensitivity of the camera.The lower the ISO number, the less sensitive it is to the light, while a higher ISO number increases the sensitivity of your camera. The component within your camera that can change sensitivity is called “image sensor.”

100 is as low as you can go and is pretty much the default for outdoors. From there everything doubles; 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200, 6400. For nighttime video, you will need to go higher. 3200 is about the top of the range though some cameras can go to 6400.

Here are some screen shots that may help. You can open the menu under the red record button and then adjust everything from there. I would play with the shutter speed first then ISO. The faster the shutter speed, the less light will get in. 25 is as slow as you can get I think. You can refer to the EV (Evaluation) Meter at the bottom for more guidance.

If all else fails, try AUTO!

Increasing ISO on digital imaging systems does nothing to alter the sensor sensitivity, what simply happens is that the sensor analogue output is amplified before feeding the A/D converter. The issue here is obvious, any noise present in the sensor output at native ISO gets amplified. My Canon 1DX body has a max ISO setting of 204,800 and gives quite acceptable at 6400. That is the advantage of a full frame sensor. We cant expect anything near that from a tiny sensor. 400 on a P3 is probably comparable to 6400 on a good DSLR.

EV= “Expposure Value”.

Another factor of relavence to all Digital Imaging systems is to avoid under exposure. Exposing to the right of the histogram will produce cleaner images with better DR (particularity with respect to detail and noise in the shadow areas).

 

[LarBear360]

Increasing ISO on digital imaging systems does nothing to alter the sensor sensitivity, what simply happens is that the sensor analogue output is amplified before feeding the A/D converter. The issue here is obvious, any noise present in the sensor output at native ISO gets amplified. My Canon 1DX body has a max ISO setting of 204,800 and gives quite acceptable at 6400. That is the advantage of a full frame sensor. We cant expect anything near that from a tiny sensor. 400 on a P3 is probably comparable to 6400 on a good DSLR.

EV= “Expposure Value”.

Another factor of relavence to all Digital Imaging systems is to avoid under exposure. Exposing to the right of the histogram will produce cleaner images with better DR (particularity with respect to detail and noise in the shadow areas).

He was looking for "laymans terms" but thanks! Hopefully the OP will figure it out.

 

[With The Birds]

He was looking for "laymans terms" but thanks! Hopefully the OP will figure it out.

Ok- well he can go to my post at #4 then, it really is that simple with the P3A/P/S/4K/SE.

 

[LarBear360]

Ok- well he can go to my post at #4 then, it really is that simple with the P3A/P/S/4K/SE.

You clearly missed post #5. But that's OK, you win anyway.

 

[With The Birds]

You clearly missed post #5. But that's OK, you win anyway.

I didn’t miss it, in fact my suggestions were principally directed at video acquisition. For stills I would be suggesting that shutter speeds up to several seconds can be used in preference to raising ISO for static subjects with the AC hovering In reasonably still conditions.

Win what? The objective for all here is seemingly nothing more than ensuring correct and useful information is provided.

 

[LarBear360]

Sorry Mark, you were looking for help in "laymans terms" as you put it and the thread turned in to a bit of a pissing contest. That's OK, I just learned how to use the "Ignore" button and by gosh it works!! Enjoy your P3S.

 

[mark191]

Thank you for all the replys,sorry if I have caused a little spat .

 

[With The Birds]

Thank you for all the replys,sorry if I have caused a little spat .

Let us know how you go. If there are a lot of bright light sources in the scene you can often get a better overall result by increasing the exposure to the point they are overexposed. They will still look like lights and you may get better detail and less noise in the darker areas.

 

[LarBear360]

Thank you for all the replys,sorry if I have caused a little spat .

Mark, no apology necessary. I have found members here who go over the top to help people. I do the same for others, as I did with those screen shots, given I have the time.

Then there are others who try to help but tend to be a bit condescending in their remarks, especially if the original poster owns a Standard! Like I said enjoy and post here any time.