Gimbal disconnected still works like a gimbal but no image transmission

[rifr4a4]

I have not had any hard crashes at all. One day it just stopped working. My only other option is to replace it or use my DJI care. Please help.

 

[ArmyVet]

Are you saying your gimbal works fine?
But camera does not work??
Your title confused me.
So, no Hard cranes? But crashes????
Try a different SD card.

 

[rifr4a4]

Are you saying your gimbal works fine?
But camera does not work??
Your title confused me.
So, no Hard cranes? But crashes????
Try a different SD card.

Gimbal works fine, just no image transmission. every time I turn it on, The status light turns red, and then turns off. I tried a new SD card but that did not do anything to help the issue

 

[ArmyVet]

Is your device display for the camera "ghosted out" ??

Meaning it does not see camera either??

I have the reverse problem. Good Camera bad gimbal.

Based on my research. Both our problems are in the Gimbal/Camera assembly cable or pc boards.

Maybe an "expert can add something.

I swapped mine with a know good and it worked fine.

I have a replacement on the way.

If you are confident with trying to check the connections on your cables. See if you can spot a problem.

 

[jiminyfixit]

Thought I would jump in and try not to confuse the issue with another issue, but a conversation might help.
rifr4a4, you might have a bad main circuit board, (mother board). However, there is really no way to determine that unless you put a fully functioning camera on your drone and see if it is, in fact the camera. Not sure how old your camera is. If it came new with your drone, or was a replacement camera. Has it had any repairs made to it? With a bad main board, you can still have a good gimbal.

Armyvet's issue is most likely a ribbon cable issue. Check for very tiny tears or abrasions in the cable, especially where the cable enters the roll or pitch circuit board covers.. Check for limited clearance where camera swings near cable. And check for a loose cable in places where the adhesive may have released itself. And finally, make sure the camera module swings without binding in the portion of the cable that is protected by the "U" shaped bracket next to the camera housing.
Once again, if you purchase a new ribbon cable, don't be lured by a cheap price. I have renewed a camera back to full function just by replacing the cheap counterfeit cable. Double-ply, like the original DJI cables is the only way to go.
So, here is another similar issue with a different twist. Since I repair P3P, A and Std. cameras, I have to have all three model drones to test the cameras. My P3P drone started to have a puzzling image issue a couple of weeks ago. With a good color image on the tablet, I would touch the drone and the image would freeze and go to black and white. I would wait 15 to 30 seconds and the color would reappear with full motion in the image. This week there is now no image, but the camera works fine in the P3A. I have been told that image signals originate in the camera's main board, but this issue doesn't seem to support that. I thought it might be the TX, but after swapping TX's this morning, that theory is incorrect. SO, it must be the module underneath the Positioning circuit board, where all the antenna wires connect. I would name this the wifi module, until someone can educate me to the contrary.

Does anybody have any experience with this issue?

Thanks to any and all in advance!!
JIm

 

[ArmyVet]

Thought I would jump in and try not to confuse the issue with another issue, but a conversation might help.
rifr4a4, you might have a bad main circuit board, (mother board). However, there is really no way to determine that unless you put a fully functioning camera on your drone and see if it is, in fact the camera. Not sure how old your camera is. If it came new with your drone, or was a replacement camera. Has it had any repairs made to it? With a bad main board, you can still have a good gimbal.

Armyvet's issue is most likely a ribbon cable issue. Check for very tiny tears or abrasions in the cable, especially where the cable enters the roll or pitch circuit board covers.. Check for limited clearance where camera swings near cable. And check for a loose cable in places where the adhesive may have released itself. And finally, make sure the camera module swings without binding in the portion of the cable that is protected by the "U" shaped bracket next to the camera housing.
Once again, if you purchase a new ribbon cable, don't be lured by a cheap price. I have renewed a camera back to full function just by replacing the cheap counterfeit cable. Double-ply, like the original DJI cables is the only way to go.
So, here is another similar issue with a different twist. Since I repair P3P, A and Std. cameras, I have to have all three model drones to test the cameras. My P3P drone started to have a puzzling image issue a couple of weeks ago. With a good color image on the tablet, I would touch the drone and the image would freeze and go to black and white. I would wait 15 to 30 seconds and the color would reappear with full motion in the image. This week there is now no image, but the camera works fine in the P3A. I have been told that image signals originate in the camera's main board, but this issue doesn't seem to support that. I thought it might be the TX, but after swapping TX's this morning, that theory is incorrect. SO, it must be the module underneath the Positioning circuit board, where all the antenna wires connect. I would name this the wifi module, until someone can educate me to the contrary.

Does anybody have any experience with this issue?

Thanks to any and all in advance!!
JIm

Jim,

Thanks for that info. Really appreciate it. I decided to hold off on buying an entire new gimbal/camera module. Instead I bought a new Raptor drone. It was on sale for $249 and has GPS. And it works great!



Anyway I will now take the ribbon cable off the Phantom and examine everything again and make sure I get a "good" cable.

I get a "Gimbal Gyroscope error". Would you happen to know where that is physically located??

Thanks for the help. Sorry cant help you...:-(

Bill

 

[jiminyfixit]

Bill, I've never seen that error before. What model do you have?
BTW, if you are not familiar with swapping out a ribbon cable, watch a uTube video first.
Jim

 

[ArmyVet]

Bill, I've never seen that error before. What model do you have?
BTW, if you are not familiar with swapping out a ribbon cable, watch a uTube video first.
Jim

P3S here.

I have done the ribbon cable once already. And it still does not work. Cam works, flies well no gimbal action. I locked the gimbal and when I fly, I get pretty decent video

 

[jiminyfixit]

If I had your camera on my bench and had the issue you describe, I would disassemble the gimbal, right down to he motors and do a close inspection. I use a 5X eye loupe and inspect the 3 tiny chip sensors on all the motors. Look for gouges in them or a complete dislocation of the sensor at the solder points. I would also remove the motor housing and inspect the black ring, (magnetic race), for chips or gouges and also look for any broken wires in the motor windings. The quickest way to spot a broken wire is to press silly putty, yes, silly putty onto the top of the motor. When you peel the putty off any broken wire will show up. I also use the putty to clean out the race area before I reassemble. This method removes any metal shavings or dirt. I have had cameras that crashed into the dirt and rendered the pitch and roll motors useless until I cleaned them out.

Also inspect the short ribbon cable on each motor. If they were removed without flipping the black lever up, they will get deep gouges in the gold contacts and won't make good enough contact to function. By the same token, if the ribbons were removed several times, the small divits in the gold contacts get deeper and finally will not make a good connection.

Let me know what you find,
Jim

 

[ArmyVet]

If I had your camera on my bench and had the issue you describe, I would disassemble the gimbal, right down to he motors and do a close inspection. I use a 5X eye loupe and inspect the 3 tiny chip sensors on all the motors. Look for gouges in them or a complete dislocation of the sensor at the solder points. I would also remove the motor housing and inspect the black ring, (magnetic race), for chips or gouges and also look for any broken wires in the motor windings. The quickest way to spot a broken wire is to press silly putty, yes, silly putty onto the top of the motor. When you peel the putty off any broken wire will show up. I also use the putty to clean out the race area before I reassemble. This method removes any metal shavings or dirt. I have had cameras that crashed into the dirt and rendered the pitch and roll motors useless until I cleaned them out.

Also inspect the short ribbon cable on each motor. If they were removed without flipping the black lever up, they will get deep gouges in the gold contacts and won't make good enough contact to function. By the same token, if the ribbons were removed several times, the small divits in the gold contacts get deeper and finally will not make a good connection.

Let me know what you find,
Jim

Jim,
Thank you so much for that very complete tutorial on troubleshooting a gimbal/camera. It is very much appreciated.

I have all intentions on tearing back into my Phantom. I will search for a an OEM ribbon cable.

My last experience in doing the disassembly and assembly was no fun haha. At my age my dexterity is not what it used to be. Last time I repaired a Ham Radio it took 90 minutes to do a 15 minute job.....ughhhhh.

If I gave up, Can I send you the gimbal/camera unit only?
How much do you charge?
Thanks Again.

Bill

 

[jiminyfixit]

Hi Bill,

I'm happy to work on your camera. I've worked on so many of these cameras I can almost replace a ribbon cable in the dark. I charge $25 to replace a ribbon cable, but, yeah, there's always a but. Are you sure that is all that's needed? I charge $15 for an inspection/evaluation, which is part of my process of tearing the gimbal apart. I always test the function of the unit in my test drone before I disassemble it. My next step is to remove the gimbal from the main circuit board and test them separately and then I go to work. I would contact you first before I make repairs. You can contact me a [email protected] for shipping info.

Jim

 

[ArmyVet]

Hi Bill,

I'm happy to work on your camera. I've worked on so many of these cameras I can almost replace a ribbon cable in the dark. I charge $25 to replace a ribbon cable, but, yeah, there's always a but. Are you sure that is all that's needed? I charge $15 for an inspection/evaluation, which is part of my process of tearing the gimbal apart. I always test the function of the unit in my test drone before I disassemble it. My next step is to remove the gimbal from the main circuit board and test them separately and then I go to work. I would contact you first before I make repairs. You can contact me a [email protected] for shipping info.

Jim

Thanks,

I will contact you by email.

Bill

 

[hanna21]

no image transmission .

the gimble wire open it all and re wire it.
last thing get new wire if it dont work this is the problem

 

[Ntupitza]

Just want to throw this out there.... It would be a LOT easier to help identify a problem if there are screenshots attached to the post....