Free Advanced & Fix

What shell

  • Stock

    Votes: 1 100.0%
  • phavic drone body kit

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Other option

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    1
Joined
Sep 21, 2017
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Age
46
Well I got a crashed Advanced for basically nothing and after dismantling I have found what appears to be 4 simple fixes on paper anyway.
The USB plug has popped off and the capacitor next to it along with the black wire to an arm LED board.
I need to know what exact capacitor I need? And what I should expect to pay to have then resoldered. Super simple I think.
That along with a $15 pack of wires and a shell should technically have it working.
What shell or frame should I hang it on?
Stock or phavic drone body
 

Attachments

  • FB_IMG_1505991699451.jpg
    FB_IMG_1505991699451.jpg
    141.9 KB · Views: 399
  • IMG_20170921_090855.jpg
    IMG_20170921_090855.jpg
    326.2 KB · Views: 410
  • Screenshot_20170921-062835.png
    Screenshot_20170921-062835.png
    2.9 MB · Views: 380
  • IMG_20170920_234031468.jpg
    6.6 MB · Views: 389
  • IMG_20170920_145941893.jpg
    5.2 MB · Views: 383
I need to know what exact capacitor I need?
Welcome to the forum!

There a few versions of the main board and the caps are not the same across versions. Click here for more info on that and pictures to help determine what you need.

Based on your pix, my guess is this one but please confirm this for yourself.

v9 board cap.JPG



And what I should expect to pay to have then resoldered. Super simple I think.
I also think it would be a simple soldering job. Can you do it yourself or do you know someone who can spare 5 minutes to do it for you?

What shell or frame should I hang it on?
Stock or phavic drone body
My feedback would be to use a standard P3A shell since you still have no idea if you can even get it working. It seems to me that trying to use a different shell might introduce too many unnecessary variables for troubleshooting if it's not functional.

Note that the gimbal/camera assy and cables are routinely damaged in crashes so be sure to give those components their due attention. :)
 
Last edited:
Ya I've looked over it and not finding anything else that looks broken.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20170921_002142408.jpg
    6.5 MB · Views: 318
  • IMG_20170920_234027691.jpg
    6.9 MB · Views: 361
  • IMG_20170920_232444871.jpg
    7.3 MB · Views: 383
  • IMG_20170920_231439968.jpg
    6.4 MB · Views: 365
  • Screenshot_20170921-100922.png
    Screenshot_20170921-100922.png
    1.9 MB · Views: 379
  • Screenshot_20170921-003650.png
    Screenshot_20170921-003650.png
    2.1 MB · Views: 393
For the big, polarized capacitor - any kind (well, electrolytic or tantal) will work, as long as it's no less than 200uF and no less than 18V. The bigger the better, as long as it fits. Remember it's polarized.

Note that your SMD capacitors near border of the board also look poor. They are probably bigger issue that the tantal one - the drone will start without this one (but do replace it, it is there for a reason).

For the SMD caps - check with multimeter if they're not shorted; if not - just make sure they are soldered to their pads; little damage shouldn't influence the ESC (yes, they are part of the ESC driver circuit).
 
I was hoping the description I made is enough; but here you go:


Whether you can repair it - I don't know, how could I know? I can assess my skill - I would repair it.
If you send it to DJI, they will replace the board and charge you for new one, most drone repair shops don't do component level repair as well.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
143,066
Messages
1,467,358
Members
104,936
Latest member
hirehackers