Engine Trouble?

[CameraGuy]

http://youtu.be/C1xXL17cCJQ

Here is a short video of my DJI Phantom motor. The video shows how it is performing, or not as is the case.

I took it apart, and applied some lube to it, but it didn't improve.

Is it the motor?
The Esc?
Something else?

All help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Darren

 

[martcerv]

If that motor is in the same corner as where your fire was then its likely the ESC may have a problem, I have heard of guys having their ESC catch fire after not doing a great soldering job on the motor but yours could be due to where the gimbal was soldered to the main board.

 

[will27]

http://youtu.be/C1xXL17cCJQ

Here is a short video of my DJI Phantom motor. The video shows how it is performing, or not as is the case.

I took it apart, and applied some lube to it, but it didn't improve.

Is it the motor?
The Esc?
Something else?

It could be either, but one thing you might want to consider is getting a set of higher quality motor bearings, they are only about $16 for a set of 4 which will help your motor performance on all 4. You might be able to tell if it's a bearing by how easily it turns compared to the other motors. You could also swap one of the other motors to check the ESC. If you buy another motor which is about $26 and an ESC for about $19 you can use what you don't need as spares.

 

[CameraGuy]

If that motor is in the same corner as where your fire was then its likely the ESC may have a problem, I have heard of guys having their ESC catch fire after not doing a great soldering job on the motor but yours could be due to where the gimbal was soldered to the main board.

The fire wasn't near here, and I noticed this before take off on the last flight.

Do I ever stop spending money here?

D

 

[CameraGuy]

http://youtu.be/C1xXL17cCJQ

Here is a short video of my DJI Phantom motor. The video shows how it is performing, or not as is the case.

I took it apart, and applied some lube to it, but it didn't improve.

Is it the motor?
The Esc?
Something else?

It could be either, but one thing you might want to consider is getting a set of higher quality motor bearings, they are only about $16 for a set of 4 which will help your motor performance on all 4. You might be able to tell if it's a bearing by how easily it turns compared to the other motors. You could also swap one of the other motors to check the ESC. If you buy another motor which is about $26 and an ESC for about $19 you can use what you don't need as spares.

Yes, I guess that is a failsafe solution.

Grounds me for a week.

Too bad

D

 

[bumper]

It almost has to be the ESC. The brushless motors used in RC use an electronically controlled AC "timed" input to cause the motor to rotate, speed up the frequency of the input signal and the motor speeds up accordingly. See the following link for a good explanation:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brushless_ ... tric_motor

bumper

 

[CameraGuy]

It almost has to be the ESC. The brushless motors used in RC use an electronically controlled AC "timed" input to cause the motor to rotate, speed up the frequency of the input signal and the motor speeds up accordingly. See the following link for a good explanation:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brushless_ ... tric_motor

bumper

OK, but why does the motor not feel the same way when I try and turn it as the others do. I mean by hand. Can that be the ESC?

Without using a soldering iron to remove the connection of the motor to another one, what can I do to test this? Also, do I have to change all 4 at once, or just one at a time is OK?

D

 

[DeweyAXD]

Looks very similar behaviour to mine when I messed up replacing the bearing. I had over twisted the wires and the windings had come loose inside the motor. Have you had it out at all and fiddled around with it (even lightly?) If so i'd suggest that is the problem.

 

[Audaciter]

OK, but why does the motor not feel the same way when I try and turn it as the others do. I mean by hand. Can that be the ESC?

Without using a soldering iron to remove the connection of the motor to another one, what can I do to test this? Also, do I have to change all 4 at once, or just one at a time is OK?

If the motor just seems "notchy", clocking to the magnets in the housing, but not like a foreign substance is inside, that is
normal.

Do all of your LED's light up correctly ?

Try swapping the leads that go into the Naza controller M1-M4, and see if you still have the problem with the same
motor/esc combo.

You can replace just one motor or esc at a time, without problem, as long as you stay with the oem stuff.

No, you will never be done spending money on that thing. On the upside though, I think you got pretty lucky
not to have too much damage from the fire.
I''ll bet that battery got disconnected pretty **** quick.

 

[bumper]

OK, but why does the motor not feel the same way when I try and turn it as the others do. I mean by hand. Can that be the ESC?

Without using a soldering iron to remove the connection of the motor to another one, what can I do to test this? Also, do I have to change all 4 at once, or just one at a time is OK?

D

Agree with Audaciter.

When turning the motor by hand, it will feel "notchy" as the rare earth magnets are moving past the stator core segments. This will feel more pronounced when turning the motor by its shaft as compared to turning the prop. But when flipping the props by hand, as one would when propping a gas motor, they should sound and behave similarly to each other. Any unusual mechanical friction or resistance within the motor, when the ship is not powered, would not be the ESC of course. Disassemble the motor and inspect for damage or obstruction.

When I had a failing ESC (intermittent), swapping the ESC plugs to the NAZA had the problem staying in place (same motor), so I knew to replace the ESC. They are available for around $18 or so - - they come in two flavors, red lights or green.

bumper

 

[CameraGuy]

I ordered a new ESC and new motor this afternoon. I don't know what the issue is.

There is nothing foreign in the motor. I took it apart to lube it, so I can confirm that.

Yes, the battery was disconnected within about 10 seconds.

I suspect one or the other, but when you are spending $20 on one, and $24 on the other, you might as well replace the pair.

Hopefully my soldering skill isn't as bad as I think it is.

Still looking at a 550 or clone.

D

 

[fortmed]

i hand the same problem. check to see if the c clamp on the bottom of motor is still on shaft. mine was under the magnet cover causing simular noise. hope it helps..

 

[CameraGuy]

Re: Engine Trouble? - Update

I replaced only the motor. Tested, and it spun up just fine.

I did do a flight, but it is apparent, I messed up again and put the props on incorrectly.

Helpful comments welcome

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8dZY1U4Z ... load_owner

D

 

[Audaciter]

Don't worry about it CameraGuy, a lot of things went on when we were helping you diagnose the problem, lets begin there.

1. check to make sure all the ESC' connections got placed back into the the Naza controller M1-M4, begin with right front,
as number 1, left front =2, left rear =3, right rear =4.

2. without the props installed, start the motors, and use a piece of paper, or cardboard, up against the motor, to determine
the rotations. It should match the direction of the arrow on the top shell. (especially important, on the motor you just replaced). If the motor you just replaced, is going the wrong direction, you can swap any 2 wires, and it will be right.

3. Install the top shell, making sure to line up the grooves on the front arms, so it doesn't get installed 90 deg. out.

4. Install props, start engines, and see what results you get.

CameraGuy; Don't let little setbacks get to you. The reason we are able to help with advise, isn't because we are
"know it alls", but because we have been there, done that, and got the t-shirt.

 

[Audaciter]

Forum user Gazchap, noticed in the video, that one of your led's may be malfunctioning.
You may want to check it out, and replace if necessary.

 

[CameraGuy]

Don't worry about it CameraGuy, a lot of things went on when we were helping you diagnose the problem, lets begin there.

1. check to make sure all the ESC' connections got placed back into the the Naza controller M1-M4, begin with right front,
as number 1, left front =2, left rear =3, right rear =4.

2. without the props installed, start the motors, and use a piece of paper, or cardboard, up against the motor, to determine
the rotations. It should match the direction of the arrow on the top shell. (especially important, on the motor you just replaced). If the motor you just replaced, is going the wrong direction, you can swap any 2 wires, and it will be right.

3. Install the top shell, making sure to line up the grooves on the front arms, so it doesn't get installed 90 deg. out.

4. Install props, start engines, and see what results you get.

CameraGuy; Don't let little setbacks get to you. The reason we are able to help with advise, isn't because we are
"know it alls", but because we have been there, done that, and got the t-shirt.

Thanks,

When my ego is slightly less damaged than it is right now, I'll check it out.

My frustration..... I have spend the last 8 months trying to get everything right. The gimbal was the last of the equation. It tested well, and then this happens with the loss of control and the failed motor.

Maybe I should sell my kit for cheap, and my DX8 and move along to the Walkera. A fresh start with more confidence. Or, but a train set. They always come back.

D

 

[Audaciter]

You are getting valuable information, that will help no matter which manufacturers device you next obtain.

I've been toying with the idea of getting one of the Blade or Walkera models, without the radio, just for
thrashing around with, and let the Phantom alone with the gimbal..

Cheer up CameraGuy...