Double Yellow Flashes - can't calibrate compass

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I have a Phantom 2 that I updated to Version 3 of the Assistant. It wouldn't spool up so I calibrated my sticks and did the Advanced Calibration under TOOLS for good measure. I then did the compass calibration dance and while it starts out yellow and switches to green after the first rotation, when I make the second rotation instead of the green flash I get two yellow flashes in close succession and those yellow flashes (two close together) are what it displays when I boot up now (and I cannot spool up the motors). ... I've gone through the calibration routine numerous times (both in Assistant and trying to calibrate the compass in different locations to be sure I"m away from metal or interference) but no go. I can't figure this out. The LED code sheet does not include the double flash yellow and this is definitely different than the typical constant yellow flashing meaning no control signal (it will go into that LED flash when I turn off the transmitter). It obviously has something to do with the compass as it won't ever give me a green indicating GPS is working. Help would be appreciated.
 
Which mode are you in? Phantom 2 or NAZA-M?

Fink
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Two yellow flashes according to the Naza chart means you are in ATTI mode and sticks are not at centre so I suspect you're sticks are not calibrated correctly yet, you did calibrate them with both assistants didn't you?
 
Thanks for the responses guys.

The yellow flashes in ATT mode are different than the quick double flashes I experienced. Fortunately, I figured out the problem. You see, I had removed the CANBus connector and put it inside the shell so I could put the 24GHz datalink and the iOSD mini inside the Phantom. When I pulled those components out it immediately went into normal Green GPS mode. When I put the datalink back inside it went back to the double yellow flash and would not spool up. Obviously, there was some sort of interference with the datalink. I had removed its case for weight purposes and after I put the case back on everything was good and all is working. The lesson learned is to either put the Datalink outside the shell or be sure to keep the case on for shielding purposes.

It was important for me to figure this out because I'm in French Polynesia on a work project and needed to be able to get some aerial plates. Here's a couple video frames from 2,000 feet today using a RageCams 5.4mm lens.

I'm using the iPad ground station and it has been working fantastic. I have a helical antenna for long range on a Black Pearl using a Iftron stinger transmitter and it has also been solid.

Mark
http://www.Visual-Aerials.com

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