Differences between early P3P and current model?

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I recently purchased a used P3P that the guy said he bought in May of 2015. I know that the current model has different motors than the one I bought, but is there anything else that changed since then? Also, why did they change to different motors?
Thanks.
 

Meta4

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I recently purchased a used P3P that the guy said he bought in May of 2015. I know that the current model has different motors than the one I bought, but is there anything else that changed since then? Also, why did they change to different motors?
DJI never explained the reason to change motors and both versions work quite well.
They didn't change anything else on the drones but the controllers have had an A, B & C version with small differences in out put strength.
This post explains what the real difference is between new/old motors.

New or old motors phantom 3
 
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DJI never explained the reason to change motors and both versions work quite well.
They didn't change anything else on the drones but the controllers have had an A, B & C version with small differences in out put strength.
This post explains what the real difference is between new/old motors.

New or old motors phantom 3
Thank-you.
 

alokbhargava

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There were so may posts on the stress cracks when P3A/P were launched. People doubted the shell design problems but in some corners it was reported that it was a shell manufacturing problem by DJI sub-suppliers. Later on we heard, DJI revised the motors and the shell. Reason? No one knows!

I have P3P with old design and is working flawlessly since 2015.
 
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There were so may posts on the stress cracks when P3A/P were launched. People doubted the shell design problems but in some corners it was reported that it was a shell manufacturing problem by DJI sub-suppliers. Later on we heard, DJI revised the motors and the shell. Reason? No one knows!

I have P3P with old design and is working flawlessly since 2015.
Thanks, I was reading the post Meta4 referred me to and besides getting a headache, it seems to me there is just not that much difference in the two motors.
 

alokbhargava

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Thanks, I was reading the post Meta4 referred me to and besides getting a headache, it seems to me there is just not that much difference in the two motors.
Don't worry for minor electrical and mechanical differences in those two motors.
 
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Don't worry for minor electrical and mechanical differences in those two motors.
I'm perfectly happy with what I have. My only thought is whether it would be wise to pickup a cw and a ccw motor now considering they are not that expensive.
 

cr6

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I had a stress crack come up on one of my P3P arms over the summer. It still flew fine, but since I had recently passed my 107 test, I didn't want to risk running into problems later down the road by flying it when I knew there was a structural issue.
I sent it to ATK Drones in Salt Lake City where they swapped it out with an upgraded replacement shell, and sent it back a few days later. She's flown great ever since.

S5 tap'n
 
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I had a stress crack come up on one of my P3P arms over the summer. It still flew fine, but since I had recently passed my 107 test, I didn't want to risk running into problems later down the road by flying it when I knew there was a structural issue.
I sent it to ATK Drones in Salt Lake City where they swapped it out with an upgraded replacement shell, and sent it back a few days later. She's flown great ever since.

S5 tap'n
Are the stress cracks only happening on the older ones?
 

alokbhargava

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alokbhargava

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I'm perfectly happy with what I have. My only thought is whether it would be wise to pickup a cw and a ccw motor now considering they are not that expensive.
Normally motors don't fail unless props get stalled/ get stuck for long and you don't stop the motors. You can pickup those motors any time, they are readily available.
 
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Normally motors don't fail unless props get stalled/ get stuck for long and you don't stop the motors. You can pickup those motors any time, they are readily available.
Thanks again, I was just looking at the motors on line and your right, no problem getting them.
 
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Saw awhile back a fix for cracking (Non-tree induced). Slightly loosen the 4 screws nearest the main body. My fix, apply small amount of epoxy inside the shell around screw pylons.
 
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Meta4

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Saw awhile back a fix for cracking (Non-tree induced). Slightly loosen the 4 screws nearest the main body. My fix, apply small amount of epoxy inside the shell around screw pylons.
There are many supposed fixes but if you had one of the majority of P3s that wasn't going to crack, it wasn't going to crack.
 
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alokbhargava

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Let's forget the stress cracks as it takes us no where.

To answer OP about the differences in old and new model of P3P, new has new motors and new shell, rest is same.


Sent from my iPhone using PhantomPilots
 
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New shell... cause old ones had stress cracks... but forget about that.....
 
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Well the subject of newer P3P/A vs older models looks to me is not limited to the newer (2312A) vs older (2312) motors, having in turn too different ESC boards (part 33 for old motors, part 96 for the new motors, new motors don't run well at high throttle if used with the old ESC board), but there are differences in terms of the Tx pwr of both the AC & RC.
Namely, DJI has licensed at FCC not just the P3P W323 1503 that provides an AC with Tx 0.745 Watts and an RC with Tx of 0.380 Watts (both GL300A & B), but has 2 lower Tx powered models W323 1507 with AC Tx 0.612 Watts, or even lower power as W323 1510 with just AC Tx 0.520 Watts. What I've noticed searching here on the European market, the W323 1510 comes with the RC GL300C, which has just Tx 0.303 Watts, lower that the above mentioned 300A & B.
The same applies for P3A W322 1503 (AC Tx 0.729 Watts), 1507 (AC Tx 0.630 Watts), 1510 (AC Tx 0.550 Watts).

So, since DJI production for P3P/A was stopped, pilots that buy now their P3 from what the dealers market still has to offer from stock, should ask for the 1503 model with RC 300A or B. All rest of combinations have lower Tx power, impacting directly to the fly distance before signal loss, especially in the urban area.

Be happy if you own a state of art 1503 model P3P or P3A ! :)
 
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Well the subject of newer P3P/A vs older models looks to me is not limited to the newer (2312A) vs older (2312) motors, having in turn too different ESC boards (part 33 for old motors, part 96 for the new motors, new motors don't run well at high throttle if used with the old ESC board), but there are differences in terms of the Tx pwr of both the AC & RC.
Namely, DJI has licensed at FCC not just the P3P W323 1503 that provides an AC with Tx 0.745 Watts and an RC with Tx of 0.380 Watts (both GL300A & B), but has 2 lower Tx powered models W323 1507 with AC Tx 0.612 Watts, or even lower power as W323 1510 with just AC Tx 0.520 Watts. What I've noticed searching here on the European market, the W323 1510 comes with the RC GL300C, which has just Tx 0.303 Watts, lower that the above mentioned 300A & B.
The same applies for P3A W322 1503 (AC Tx 0.729 Watts), 1507 (AC Tx 0.630 Watts), 1510 (AC Tx 0.550 Watts).

So, since DJI production for P3P/A was stopped, pilots that buy now their P3 from what the dealers market still has to offer from stock, should ask for the 1503 model with RC 300A or B. All rest of combinations have lower Tx power, impacting directly to the fly distance before signal loss, especially in the urban area.

Be happy if you own a state of art 1503 model P3P or P3A ! :)
Too many numbers for this old man(lol), so how many watts does the tx have on the original P3P? Thanks
 

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