Crashed my P3P and I need help

[Husam]

Hey guys

Crashed my P3P Yesterday because I flew in house yard and surrounded with walls for unknown reasons it's started to drift toward the wall and crashed into it, any way I disarmed the aircraft after worth and one motor started to make some noise and a bad smell with extreme heat.
I tested the aircraft after an hour, the motors now cooler and it's fly's normal but I wanna know how the drone reliable now, also I want you to see this pictures of motors.

Do I need to replace a motor or so?

 

[turbopropello]

wel been there done that..
u should after my opinion at least take into account that it might not perfrom same as before...
spesially when landing.. i crashed one p3p because i was doing a landing and my dad did not tell me that he had crashed it a bit before that flight.. so when i was going to slow down the desent it dident respon as it used to..
so after that i allways do slow landing.. no more cowboy landings..

 

[Husam]

 

[alokbhargava]

If there was no smoke, just hot and smell, motors should be usable as these are low voltage motors and can work with weak enamel insulation.

Check for any cracks on shell, remove the motor screws and check if all ok.

Sorry, it's difficult to get the details from your posted pic

 

[Husam]

 

[Husam]

If there was no smoke, just hot and smell, motors should be usable as these are low voltage motors and can work with weak enamel insulation.

Check for any cracks on shell, remove the motor screws and check if all ok.

Sorry, it's difficult to get the details from your posted pic

Sorry i'm trying to upload more pics just the internet slows some times

 

[robinb]

The motor looks ok

 

[Husam]

The motor looks ok

Really but there what it looks like material between widings.

 

[robinb]

Really but there what it looks like material between widings.

as i said it looks fine.

 

[flyNfrank]

Anytime you crash and still have a aircraft that you can fly, you should calibrate the IMU once again. Also after being a member here for some time you will find out the best approach to calibrating the IMU is to make the aircraft as cold as possible. Some place them in the refrigerator or freezer. The battery dose not need to installed while cooling. Try to do this so the device that has the GO app installed is powered up and ready to select the start process. This will include having the Remote Controller powered up as well. Once those are ready, remove aircraft and install battery, power up and place on a level surface and start the calibration process in a timely fashion so the aircraft does not warm up before beginning the start calibration.

By doing this procedure it will greatly speed up the wait time the aircraft goes through prior to each pre-flight process.

Also due calibration the IMU you should also calibrate the compass and gimbal, properly. There should be a number of video's on YouTube to help with how to properly calibrate the compass.

 

[Husam]

Thanks every one for your support, I tested the aircraft today and performed normal like nothing happened to it, but I still has doubt that I can not rely on it for LRFPV.

ANY WAY THANKS alot

 

[WetDog]

Thanks every one for your support, I tested the aircraft today and performed normal like nothing happened to it, but I still has doubt that I can not rely on it for LRFPV.

ANY WAY THANKS alot

You are exactly right. The motor is * probably * Ok, but you don't really know if it took a minor hit that will cause problems later. The other issue with hot motors is melting of the plastic supports. Motors are relatively inexpensive and easy to replace. The hard part is getting the shell off. If you are at all inclined to do that, I'd pull the shell and inspect the mounts and consider replacing the motor.

Why the ESCs don't cut the power when they see the motors binding up is beyond me.

 

[flyNfrank]

You are exactly right. The motor is * probably * Ok, but you don't really know if it took a minor hit that will cause problems later. The other issue with hot motors is melting of the plastic supports. Motors are relatively inexpensive and easy to replace. The hard part is getting the shell off. If you are at all inclined to do that, I'd pull the shell and inspect the mounts and consider replacing the motor.

Why the ESCs don't cut the power when they see the motors binding up is beyond me.

Doing any soldering inside the aircraft should never be taken for granted. I never make suggestions to for someone to do their own soldering without knowing which application is the best route to go. Type of soldering tool/gun, which solder to use, temps, cooling, plus more are just some of the things to know. It doesn't take much to end up with a wire that vibrates loose and a crashed aircraft.

I have 5 different types of soldering iron's, soldering tools, ect. Plus I have soldered several car stereo's and other electronic devices. But I would rather send my aircraft to someone I trust and who is known to great work before doing it myself. Btw, I had to experience my own failure which is why I responded to this thread. I had a wire come loose on one of my soldering points when upgrading the motors on a P2V+ in 2014. My aircraft fell from a 200ft altitude on to concrete surface.

 

[WetDog]

Doing any soldering inside the aircraft should never be taken for granted. I never make suggestions to for someone to do their own soldering without knowing which application is the best route to go. Type of soldering tool/gun, which solder to use, temps, cooling, plus more are just some of the things to know. It doesn't take much to end up with a wire that vibrates loose and a crashed aircraft.

I have 5 different types of soldering iron's, soldering tools, ect. Plus I have soldered several car stereo's and other electronic devices. But I would rather send my aircraft to someone I trust and who is known to great work before doing it myself. Btw, I had to experience my own failure which is why I responded to this thread. I had a wire come loose on one of my soldering points when upgrading the motors on a P2V+ in 2014. My aircraft fell from a 200ft altitude on to concrete surface.

This is all true, but that said, lots and lots of people have soldered new motors on. Some, I am sure, with less that satisfactory results but most folks seem to do OK. My biggest concern would be the flimsy plastic motor mounts. After a little exuberant exothermic behavior on the part of the motor, they may have been incorrectly resoldered to the rest of the frame. That can't be good.

 

[flyNfrank]

This is all true, but that said, lots and lots of people have soldered new motors on. Some, I am sure, with less that satisfactory results but most folks seem to do OK. My biggest concern would be the flimsy plastic motor mounts. After a little exuberant exothermic behavior on the part of the motor, they may have been incorrectly resoldered to the rest of the frame. That can't be good.

It looks like it should be a easy task. but also just as easy to mess it up at some point likely when in flight. Hopefully those that read this will see they should at least take some precautions prior to separating the body.

 

[Design-engine]

crashing sux

 

[flyNfrank]

crashing sux

In this hobby there is nothing worse then to lose your aircraft. You notice right away how much of a routine it had become since 1st buying it. If possible, the best thing to do is get a replacement ordered right away.

 

[Design-engine]

Ive been racing sportbikes and this hobby is way cheaper than the sport-bike racing hobby. Weekend of tires is 1200.00 USD alone. LOL

What I find interesting with everything is how much we learn each time we go out. Weather it's skate boarding, RC cars, dirtbikes.... it's what we learn each time that keeps one's interest.

 

[turbopropello]

Got it sorted it was the level that was off. So just removed the plate and adjusted the level

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