Crashed gimbal overload error, replaced ribbon cable

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I replaced the ribbon cable hoping that would solve the gimble overload issue. It didn’t ?. It’s still shaking around like crazy and I don’t know what the next step would be.. I really want to fix this on my own and have already spent $30 and 2 hours of my time.. I would love some help on this one, as I’m trying to get this fixed before my friend’s wedding. Thanks guys!
 
How bad was the crash? Does it still fly? Do you have video? Just looking for a little more info. Did you replace the 4 shock absorbers on your gimbal mount? Don’t know if I’m using the right names. Mine came with an extra set.
 
It fell about 60 ft. through a tree.. I haven’t tried to fly it because I didn’t want to put any unnecessary stress on the gimbal motors by having it powered on. I did not replace the shock absorbers yet, as they are definitely not causing the violent rolling that the camera is suffering. I still have a video signal and it’s clear, but replacing the ribbon cable had no effect.. I’m not sure what will need to be replaced at this point to get the gimble to stabilize.. thanks for the quick reply and I can definitely post a video if that will help diagnose the issue
 
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Check out your problem on U tube you will find the problem or should,the problem sounds like the smaller control boards on the gimbal !!
 
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Thanks for the added info. Anything you could provide, including that video you mentioned, would be helpful. Will make it easier for those in the know, here, to help diagnose.
 
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This seems to be my exact issue and would make perfect sense.. this will be my next step, check the continuity levels with my multimeter, thanks a ton!
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Kyle,
Yay! YouTube does it again. Learn something new every day. Glad you were able to solve it. Now I understand how crazy The camera was acting. Thanks for the thread, only way I learn, except from my own mistakes. Good luck. Have fun, fly safe.
 
It isn’t fixed yet, I just confirmed the first board he checks in the video is good to go on mine, now to check the other board.. here’s a quick video of my rolling issue IMG_3673.MOV
 
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So the ohms were correct. Did you look at the broken solder joint too? Assume you did. Interested to find out how the other board is. Thanks for staying in touch.
 
So the ohms were correct. Did you look at the broken solder joint too? Assume you did. Interested to find out how the other board is. Thanks for staying in touch.
So I haven’t been able to find any info on how to get at the other board.. I watched severa other videos and most people fix this issue by 1. Tightening the yaw arm set screw. 2. Aligning the metal arm that goes straight through the first board directly behind the camera, until it is perfectly level. And 3. By simply doing a gimble calibration..

None of these have worked for me, so I have to assume it is an issue with that other board.. I’m just not sure how to access it and what readings I would need to look for..

Btw, I still have a very clear picture, so I must’ve installed the new ribbon cable fine ??‍♂️
 
Yes, I wish he had continued on to the other gimble board. He mentions it at first. You didn’t mention the solder connection that he did in the video. Yours OK? Your problems are so identical, it’s hard to believe that it’s not the board. Have you priced a replacement? The ohms should be the same on both
 
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If it is of use I have a bag of bits from what looks to be the gimbal of a P3 of some sort and have taken photos of the pitch board etc. .
I could also stick a multimeter across the pitch pot but I DO NOT KNOW if it is a working pot and it is also still connected to the board so other connected components could skew the readings.
If you replaced the ribbon cable that runs into the back of the camera it looks to me as if you would have almost exposed the pitch pot board yourself.
I can post what I think might be the dismantling sequence but I am guessing when it comes to what lies under a horse shoe shaped cover around the pitch shaft. If you did indeed replace the ribbon cable into the camera you may have a better idea in that area then me.
 
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The resistance measurements I get for the pitch pot are as shown in the attached.
A & C appears to be common i.e. probably connected by a track on the board.
Given that B-D does not equal the sum of B-C and C-D I suspect external components are skewing my results. I rotated the centre of the pot to two other positions and the sum of B-C and C-D remained roughly constant, around 7.2kΩ, suggesting to me that the resistance track inside the pot is intact. It actually feels to me as if it were a wound wire pot
 

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The photos are of various P3 and a P2 gimbals or bits of gimbals but it looks like the casings are all rather similar.
After removing the camera/gimbal assembly from the drone I think the dismantling sequence is as follows
1) remove screws marked 2 & 3 (TINY and short) then carefully remove the horse shoe shaped protector which fits around the shaft/spindle and ribbon cable.
2) Open the back of the camera and, at a guess, disconnect the ribbon cable, BE CAREFUL, it might be stuck to the board with double sided tape etc.. This probably gives access to the screw marked 6.
3) Photograph but DO NOT REMOVE screw 6 so that you know which way it fits relative to the camera body etc.. Unfortunately it seems I didn't save the photo I took of this when stripping the gimbal of a dummy drone so I can not say which way it goes.
MARK the 'fly wheel" of the pivot so that you can reposition it correctly later. As you may see it seems possible that the spindle can be assembled '180 deg out' of position (or at least it could in the dummy I stripped) and I do not know if this matters. I had assumed that the camera would have been keyed in some way so that it would only slide over the spindle in one position but this was not the case.
4) Remove the screw marked 6 which holds the camera on the spindle and the camera will probably slide off the spinde. (I stripped a dummy which had no ribbon cable or camera innards so I am guessing concerning this. I am not going to dismantle an intact camera.)
5) remove the screws marked 1, 4, 5 & 7. ..... 1 is tiny and short, 4, 5 & 7 look at a glance to be the same length as each other but 7 is thiner than 4 & 5.
6) the "cover" should come off exposing the board.
7) carefully lift the board and release the the ribbon cables as required from the back of the board. There are two connectors so I assume two ribbon cables but the 'intact' gimbal arm I dismantled only had one ribbon cable present and that runs into the actual motor. I presume the second connector is for a ribbon running up to the top board or into the camera, you will haveto 'work this bit out for yourself'.

Relative to the gimbal assembly as a whole, the camera body can be reattached to the gimbal only one way as there is a notch and key travel limiter.

I hope this is of some use.
 

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