- Oct 18, 2016
- Reaction score
And what about Superglue (cyanoacrylate ) or epoxy ?
I don't think either will adhere to the plastic very well, if at all. Cyano isn't designed to be used under stress. Any twisting will make the joint fracture again.
I used the 2nd gen shell and PLASTIC epoxy on the bottom shell on all 4 arms where the motors attach. I filled them all the way until it was even with the 4 post that the motor sits on. Make sure to fill them as equal as you can for balance but if not perfect its not a huge deal, just try. I have flown mine about 15 times with no problems. It flies straight and worry free. Some people have there methods and glues to use but for me and 2 of my friend that also got cracks this method worked great for us. Mine got cracks on the 3rd flight of my p3p and I was really pissed off. This is something that they need to address, but they wont. All they want to do is sell you the same original shell and have it crack again. The site that I provided you with is the 2nd gen shell and to date I haven't had any problems with the way I modified my bird (for the better) Make sure when you tighten the screws up to only tighten light not over do it like they did from the factory.
Do those screws that hold the motor on have any thread-lock on them? I know from my motorcycles that thread-lock is not advised on plastic windshields as it causes them to get brittle and crack for some reason. I've seen little spider web cracks form around those holes in the past and one aftermarket shield maker said not to use the stuff near plastic shields. He said there are some screws that have the stuff applied, allowed to dry, and do not out gas and cause the issue as with the wet thread-lock on the screws.
Not sure if your question is for me and if I understand it. Do you mean , releasing some stress off the body shell, unscrewing a little the mounts ?I am curious if people that are posting these cracks are doing "maintenance" tightening of the motor mount screws?
Under the motors you will have what they call strut support under the motor in that little box. In the original shell it is just a plain square frame (under the motor) and the gen 2 has a x built up in it to try to help for support. There are other things as well but this is a upgrade for the stress cracks for the motor support.Is there a way to know if you have a 2nd generation shell? I had cracks and my unit was replaced under warranty.
I'm not telling anyone to loosen 16 screws on their bird. I'm only saying if you are replacing your shell due to stress cracks to not go crazy and tighten up the screws like they did from the factory, which is the main reason for people having stress cracks. If you do replace your shell use the 2nd gen frame with a little better support, that's all I'm saying.Not sure if your question is for me and if I understand it. Do you mean , releasing some stress off the body shell, unscrewing a little the mounts ?
If yes, the answer for me is No ! When all is working well, you (i) don't want to touch anything. I presume, there is some thread locker on each screw. So you have to unscrew 16 screws, clean the screws, re thread lock them, and put them back. With no information about which torque to apply ...
Now, as the crack is here, I'll do that to fix them