Best video setting, without post??

[Holrits]

Hi,

I do not want to edit my videos i make with my p3a, so i wonder what would be the best video setting for the camera?
Anyone have an idea?
Or should I just let it be auto?

I don't have time and interest of post processing my videos at the moment

Regards Nicolai!

 

[PrecisionAeroworks]

Hi,

I do not want to edit my videos i make with my p3a, so i wonder what would be the best video setting for the camera?
Anyone have an idea?
Or should I just let it be auto?

I don't have time and interest of post processing my videos at the moment

Regards Nicolai!

Hi Nicolai.
You are exactly who all the auto settings are made for!
Choose auto and pick a color setting that you like. Pick Vivid mode for a lot of color saturation and pop, choose Cine mode for more natural film like look.

 

[Holrits]

Hi Nicolai.
You are exactly who all the auto settings are made for!
Choose auto and pick a color setting that you like. Pick Vivid mode for a lot of color saturation and pop, choose Cine mode for more natural film like look.

Yay I knew they were made for something (and some one)
What about the white balance, should it be set to any specific ?
I read people saying 5500 in manual ?

 

[Air Ontario]

I like manual WB from 4900-5700K.
Depending on what you like adjust accordingly.
I shoot outdoors by the way.
I tried the auto settings and vivid once and it really turned out well for auto settings. I was actually surprised.

 

[iFlyNhawaii]

The final test are your own eyes, if it looks good to you then it's correct.


Sent from my iPad using PhantomPilots mobile app

 

[PrecisionAeroworks]

I like manual WB from 4900-5700K.
Depending on what you like adjust accordingly.
I shoot outdoors by the way.
I tried the auto settings and vivid once and it really turned out well for auto settings. I was actually surprised.

^^What he said.
The auto white balance isn't necessarily bad, it can just change between shots, and that doesn't look so good when you look at your footage all together later.
Set it and forget it at something (5500K is perfectly fine) and your footage will at least be "uniform" for a given day.

 

[Holrits]

Yes okay i will test for sure.

The EV that you can adjust with the wheel on the remote, is that for white balance or is it another setting ?

I do have ND filters i wonder if I can use them when the setting is set to auto.
I read the shutter speed should be at 120 when shooing 60fps?
Or can I just put on the ND filter according to how much light and then let the auto setting do the rest, this must help reducing shutter speed also?

 

[Air Ontario]

When I first started I set WB at 5500K. The main thing is get a set start point and tweak Kelvin, style, etc. to what you want it to look like.

As mentioned by all above,. It's what you find correct.

 

[Air Ontario]

Let the ND filter set the shutter from the frame speed.

If you want to shoot in 1080P 30fps, use the nd filter that gets the shutter to 1/60 or higher, 1/80.

That is easier and shoots consistent in manual but work it in auto and adjust to get what is pleasing to you.

 

[PrecisionAeroworks]

The EV - Exposure Value - wheel (when in auto) will make your shots brighter or darker, using a combination of shutter speed and ISO. Use to taste (but watch out for overexposure - really hard to see that on a tablet screen).

 

[Holrits]

Ah okay, i will test it out
Thanks all!

 

[shockwave199]

You can get decent auto everything results if you hover the bird up there and tilt the camera to down just enough so the ground gets exposed the way you like it and then touch the screen in the area of the ground and then up top touch the AE icon to lock that exposure so it doesn't keep changing. That's the best way to use auto everything. I have found a profile set to none can give very natural color. You can go into custom settings and bump up saturation a little. Vivid is very saturated. ND filters starts to get away from auto settings and requires dialing in manual settings. You should at some point spend some time learning to use manual settings and custom settings. That's the best way to get good results. But when I used auto everything, at least locking exposure for a good combined ground and sky exposure did fine. Good luck,

 

[Holrits]

My idea was also maybe to use manual mode at some point but use the different "standard" setting/modes in the menu.

 

[shockwave199]

In my experience manual mode requires using ND filters. That's the best way to shoot. For a typical sunny day I use an ND 8 with iso at 100 and depending on your chosen frame rate, double the shutter speed. But all that requires manual adjustment. You asked about auto settings for now. It's possible to use that and get nice results.

 

[Air Ontario]

My idea was also maybe to use manual mode at some point but use the different "standard" setting/modes in the menu.

The "style" settings are the same thing, basically, as the Sharpness, Contrast and Saturation numbers you select in Custom. If you do
+1 +1 0 it may correspond to a style like landscape just for an example.

 

[matti]

> I do not want to edit my videos

Exposure: In the DJI app set the zebra stripes ON and then adjust via the right wheel in the RC so that nothing interesting has them.

And also set the histogram ON and make sure the curve doesn't hit right (bright) or left (dark).

White balance: Auto or Vivid.

> I do have ND filters

...I'm confused! 1st you say you want a "dummy mode" and then you say you have ND filters?! ;-)

 

[Holrits]

In my experience manual mode requires using ND filters. That's the best way to shoot. For a typical sunny day I use an ND 8 with iso at 100 and depending on your chosen frame rate, double the shutter speed. But all that requires manual adjustment. You asked about auto settings for now. It's possible to use that and get nice results.

Yes auto at some point, i think setting a picture mode like "standard" or something is ok if possible to get good videos, i just dont want to use any program for post.

 

[Roamer105]

The shutter speed has a profound effect on the overall video experience. It is very much a matter of personal preference. It also depends very much on the speed of the scene change. I attached two frame grabs from two videos taken using the same waypoint mission, hence the frames represent about the same scene however 15 minute apart on the same day. The first image is from a video taken with an ND16 filter resulting in the ability to use 100 ASA and 1/60th shutter speed while recording UHD at 30 fps. The second image is a frame taken from the second mission with only a UV filter and a shutter speed that allowed me to use 100 ASA somewhere in the 1/800th range. In both cases, the P3P was moving at 8 MPH.

In both cases I used fixed WB (5000K), D-log and custom -2,-3,-2. Neither of the two had any unwanted artifacts like jello. I ended up using the one shot WITHOUT the ND16 filter. I did not like the smeared image effect caused by a slow shutter speed. Note the coloring looks almost like a water color painting when using the slow shutter speed. Needless to say, if that is what you are looking for, go for it. Note, the ND filter did affect the WB of the image. Also, in my experience, to minimize or eliminate rolling shutter and other P3P artifacts is mostly accomplished by setting all to manual and reducing the sharpness to -2. One more significant modification I made to the P3P is to replace the original gimbal rubber vibration absorbers with a better quality. The original tended to extent too far thus hitting the anti-drop limiter.

 

[Holrits]

>

> I do have ND filters

...I'm confused! 1st you say you want a "dummy mode" and then you say you have ND filters?! ;-)

Nono i just dont want to post process the videos at all.
But I have not yet tried the me filters,
Just bought them cuz people said it was necessary

 

[shockwave199]

The shutter speed has a profound effect on the overall video experience. It is very much a matter of personal preference. It also depends very much on the speed of the scene change. I attached two frame grabs from two videos taken using the same waypoint mission, hence the frames represent about the same scene however 15 minute apart on the same day. The first image is from a video taken with an ND16 filter resulting in the ability to use 100 ASA and 1/60th shutter speed while recording UHD at 30 fps. The second image is a frame taken from the second mission with only a UV filter and a shutter speed that allowed me to use 100 ASA somewhere in the 1/800th range. In both cases, the P3P was moving at 8 MPH.

In both cases I used fixed WB (5000K), D-log and custom -2,-3,-2. Neither of the two had any unwanted artifacts like jello. I ended up using the one shot WITHOUT the ND16 filter. I did not like the smeared image effect caused by a slow shutter speed. Note the coloring looks almost like a water color painting when using the slow shutter speed. Needless to say, if that is what you are looking for, go for it. Note, the ND filter did affect the WB of the image. Also, in my experience, to minimize or eliminate rolling shutter and other P3P artifacts is mostly accomplished by setting all to manual and reducing the sharpness to -2. One more significant modification I made to the P3P is to replace the original gimbal rubber vibration absorbers with a better quality. The original tended to extent too far thus hitting the anti-drop limiter.
View attachment 48604 View attachment 48605

I favor an ND 8. An ND 16 is pretty strong. It really comes down to personal taste. I do prefer to drop sharpness down to -2, which helps create a pleasing motion blur for video and goes a long way to helping reduce moire. But for the OP, careful with log profile. That is not the one to use if you do not wish to adjust video in post. You're asking about point and shoot auto exposure. Leave it all auto in that instance, except lock your exposure when you get a good balance on the screen. That's the best you can do for full auto and it can look fine. Much more than that, as people like to talk about, defeats your wish for auto point and shoot.