Any options available for a ND or Polarizer Filter?
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While I DO use polarizing filters on my digital cameras a lot of the time, I'm not sure if I would want to use one on a Phantom. The polarizing effect varies greatly with the angle the camera / lens is to the sun. Since a quad is nearly always in motion, the "effect" will vary dramatically as it turns toward and away from the sun.
The most dramatic polarizing effect comes when the camera is pointed at right angles to the sun's position. In other words, at mid-morning with the sun half-way up in the eastern sky, the greatest darkening of your image will happen when your camera is pointed either north or south. Aiming directly into the sun...or away from the sun, the effect will be minimal.
Another factor in all of this is the extreme wide angle view of the Phantom camera. This can cause the effect to vary greatly from one edge of the frame to the other....all subject to that same 90 degree guideline.
The most dramatic polarizing effect comes when the camera is pointed at right angles to the sun's position. In other words, at mid-morning with the sun half-way up in the eastern sky, the greatest darkening of your image will happen when your camera is pointed either north or south. Aiming directly into the sun...or away from the sun, the effect will be minimal.
Another factor in all of this is the extreme wide angle view of the Phantom camera. This can cause the effect to vary greatly from one edge of the frame to the other....all subject to that same 90 degree guideline.
Additionally you will get reflections from the silver body of the camera which is pretty unhelpful too. I have the filter kit for my P2V and the results are dissapointing enought that I no longer use it.
Every wonder why all decent cameras are matt black...
Every wonder why all decent cameras are matt black...
Seahorse said:Additionally you will get reflections from the silver body of the camera which is pretty unhelpful too. I have the filter kit for my P2V and the results are dissapointing enought that I no longer use it.
Every wonder why all decent cameras are matt black...
Did you not get the matte black front stickers to cover the camera face ?? works a treat
I had not thought about the silver rim on the camera as something to degrade the image, thanks for the pointer. I bet that reflection could be reduced quite a bit by using a piece of black paper cut like a small doughnut and placed over the silver ring...
Ummmmm...DOUGHNUTS..!!! ....be back soon....!! [Grins] :arrow:
EDIT....Whoops...looks like I should have been reading instead of typing....previous post says it all...!
Ummmmm...DOUGHNUTS..!!! ....be back soon....!! [Grins] :arrow:
EDIT....Whoops...looks like I should have been reading instead of typing....previous post says it all...!
Did you not get the matte black front stickers to cover the camera face ?? works a treat [/quote]
The poor results from the polarised filter make it a worthless addition.
Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
[/quote]The poor results from the polarised filter make it a worthless addition.
Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
Very good points regarding the polarizer.
So... Any options available for a Neutral Density filter?
I realize its a brand new product that has yet to be released so of course i'm referring to something that has a universal fit.
So... Any options available for a Neutral Density filter?
I realize its a brand new product that has yet to be released so of course i'm referring to something that has a universal fit.
I'd like to know why you want to use a ND filter? I think the Phantom Camera would just compensate for the dimmer image and you would end up pretty much where you are now. If your shots are too bright, washed out, etc., I think you might have better luck altering them to your liking with one of the Video Editing bits of software.
That being said, if I needed to use a ND filter, I think I'd just get the smallest one I could find...30-40mm probably...something that would cover the field of view of the lens...(being sort of a fish-eye, it would need to be large enough to avoid 'vignetting' the frame and giving darker corners)...and then just affixing it to the front of the camera with one of the "approved" methods, starting with duct tape...double sided tape...Bondo if you are VERY sure....etc.
That being said, if I needed to use a ND filter, I think I'd just get the smallest one I could find...30-40mm probably...something that would cover the field of view of the lens...(being sort of a fish-eye, it would need to be large enough to avoid 'vignetting' the frame and giving darker corners)...and then just affixing it to the front of the camera with one of the "approved" methods, starting with duct tape...double sided tape...Bondo if you are VERY sure....etc.
Hi, very interesting point about CPL filter.
Trying to mount / adapt an graded ND plate Cokin way in front os the camera.
Already made the support housing it over the lens body and cutted an Cokin ND... it seems to be an acrilic plate.... but something difficult to cut by saw without broking it... next days i will do the testing.
Porpouse of this, is to darkening the upper part of image, let us say when when you points to an landscape with 1/4 or 1/3 of sky to get an suitable exposure in the sky and in de ground part of picture.... (normally there are 2 ou more exposure points between boths areas).
The result is an image well exposed in the whole area.
Best Regards - Juan
Trying to mount / adapt an graded ND plate Cokin way in front os the camera.
Already made the support housing it over the lens body and cutted an Cokin ND... it seems to be an acrilic plate.... but something difficult to cut by saw without broking it... next days i will do the testing.
Porpouse of this, is to darkening the upper part of image, let us say when when you points to an landscape with 1/4 or 1/3 of sky to get an suitable exposure in the sky and in de ground part of picture.... (normally there are 2 ou more exposure points between boths areas).
The result is an image well exposed in the whole area.
Best Regards - Juan
juangelb said:
Shoot RAW and use gradient tool in LightRoom or Photoshop or ...
See https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=p ... QLqigkJSj4
Not meaning to hijack the thread, but I have been brainstorming about replacing the visible light camera with one for Near IR. I've had a couple of these (purpose-modified) and the one I have now is fairly small (an Olympus), but rather than modify another Phantom, I am now considering adding a 655 or 720 nm filter to the existing FC200 camera. Obviously I don't know yet how the FC200 would respond to these IR (red) filters, so I would have to do some experimentation. So I am posting here today to find out if you have had any luck finding a way of attaching filters (any filters).
For those of you who are not aware, here is an example of a terrestrial Near IR image:
For those of you who are not aware, here is an example of a terrestrial Near IR image:
You would also have to correct the lens curvature to use the PP effect. The gradients effects in PS (or any PP tool) is usually a feathered straight line from side to side.AnselA said:
slothead said:
There's Adobe lens correction profile for FC200. Did you watch the above link? There wasn't "straight line from side to side".
Topeeka said:
You are talking about circa.pol. filter , the linear from PolarPro and GOPro are linear and are not as sensitive to a light direction .
I contributed to this post already viewtopic.php?f=6&t=19441 ; lens hood is as important as filter , Go Pro camera has no compensation capability other than darken the lens or use spot meter, lastly no editing software will fix your burned highlights (unless there is some miracle editor I am not aware of)
No, I didn't have time to watch that entire Lightroom video - and I don't use lightroom. I was not aware that there were Graded ND filter effects that followed terrain, and I didn't see that either in the first half of the Lightroom video. I only saw an adjustment of contrast and brightness (perhaps with some shadow and highlights adjustment). If there are terrain-following graded ND filters, then my argument is incorrect, but I have still not seen such (but there is a LOT I haven't seen).AnselA said:
slothead said:
You can easily skip to the end part of the video to see the result. I think it's the result which matters?
I have not even seen a graduate filter which could be adjusted up and down when Phantom is in the air?
I also need to find a good solution to mount a polarizing filter onto the stock Vision + camera. I want to take photos through shallow water and cutting down glare with a polarizer can work well in some circumstances (I've had good results doing traditional aerial photography in a Cessna). Anything similar to the Vision mount or 3rd party for the V+?
something like this, but for the V+ : http://www.amazon.com/Phantom-Vision-Pa ... B00IAS60VM
or something to mount a really small filter, like a 28mm Tiffen 28CP?
Options or insight appreciated!
something like this, but for the V+ : http://www.amazon.com/Phantom-Vision-Pa ... B00IAS60VM
or something to mount a really small filter, like a 28mm Tiffen 28CP?
Options or insight appreciated!
Ha. Yes very nice. But I'm often going for a plan view, not obliques! Also, the water isn't always gin clear! I still need a solution for a CP mount for my needs.
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