Amped Controllers/Antennas

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There seems to be some confusion with the blinking (or not blinking) of blue/green/red (or whatever color it is) lights. I have the new 3W (gold/bronze?) Sunhans amp on my P3P controller with DBS antenna. They've always stayed solid blue (NOT blinking), no matter what I do. The only way I was able to make it seem like they're blinking was to use the camera on my iphone 6 and lower the exposure (make it look darker). That's when I could see it blinking really fast. It could be the frequency of the camera/iphone, or something like that. All I know is that with the "naked" eye, I could not see the blue lights blink.

I'm at work, but when I get home tonight, I'll try to record a video of this and post. Even though my controller is in pieces now (literally) due to cracked threaded holes (I made a separate post: Controller Cracked Threaded Holes!!!)
 
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Ok back home, i will reply here instead of the dual battery thread. So, sunhans amp on remote -> solid blue light is for control. If only one amp connected to remote. Just checked.

It will stay on until you power off the remote. It's solid blue for me even when p3 is turned off. Not sure if i said just the opposite on dual battery thread, sorry if i did o_O

Edit: Seems like i did, edited posts there also.
 
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...oops.
 
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Yeah one of my amps stopped working after 10 flights,no power up no green light. Tony said that can happen sometimes when the wires get a little loose and obviously can happen if you don't have an antenna attached when powering up. The thing is my set up is permanent and everything is tight so there is no excuse for one to burn up. Other should report if this is happening with the V2 antenna also. Perhaps we can stumble onto reason that the V2 causes an amp to burn up. To be fair I stand behind FPVLR products 100% I found their customer service to be outstanding and their products to help me reach distances I would never would've been able to reach with all phantoms.but if something is going on with this antenna that's causing amps to burn up I think it's fair for the customer to know and for the company to know as well
 
I'm also very happy with mine at the moment. First i started with parabolic booster, it helped. Wanted to go further, bought itelite panel from dbsmods. Well, it kinda worked and not.. it was super sensitive when aiming. Now FPVLR v2 + sunhans 2.5w amp on control side and miniamp booster on the bird video side.

Waiting for battery packs now.. then i will know for sure - if the current setup it enough or does it need some tuning. Need to give credit to dbsmod bracket, it's super good compared to fpvlr 3d-printed one.
 
I measured my sunhans 2w booster.
20160210_185917.jpg

Got quite similar values of all 32 channels
Gl300b
 
And thats the video side, not control? Asking because i know normally you have the booster on control side.
 
I think it's worthwhile to post these specs from this thread here for quick reference. Credit goes to GadgetGuy. This is good info.

Difference in Power Outputs on DJI Transmitters and Aircraft:

The GL300Acontroller has a frequency range of:
(2404.00000000 - 2480.00000000 and a power output of 0.038000 )

The GL300Bcontroller has a frequency range of:
2404.00000000 - 2480.00000000 and a power output of 0.0380000

The GL300Ccontroller has a frequency range of:
2404.00000000 - 2470.00000000 and a power output of 0.3030000 .

The W323 Phantom 3 Professional has a frequency range of:
(2406.50000000 - 2476.50000000 and a power output of 0.7460000 )
FCC ID: SS3-WM3231503
2406.50000000 2476.50000000 0.7460000

The W323APhantom 3 Professional has a frequency range of:
2406.50000000 - 2476.50000000 and a power output of 0.6120000 (82% of the W323)
(18% more than W323B)

FCC ID: SS3-WM3231507
2406.50000000 2476.50000000 0.6120000

The W323BPhantom 3 Professional has a frequency range of:
2406.50000000 - 2476.50000000 and a power output of 0.5200000 (70% of the W323)

Both the GL300C and W323C have less power output for control and video transmission signals than the original GL300A and the W323 P3P.
 
And thats the video side, not control? Asking because i know normally you have the booster on control side.
Rc side.
But I'll do measurements of the bird across all channels as well. Struggling to keep up with my 4 month old son at the moment.
 
I have measured all channels on the bird. Very interesting result .
Fpvlr air side booster. Ce
Ch1 66,41mw
Ch2 68,00mw
Ch3 75.47mw
Ch4 80.46mw
Ch5 88.56mw
Ch6 91.43mw
Ch7 94.41mw
Ch8 114.38mw
Ch9 110.78mw
Ch10 110.78mw
Ch11 107.29mw
Ch12 107.29mw
Ch13 103.91mw
Ch14 103.91mw
Ch15 103.91mw
Ch16 100.64mw
Ch17 103.91mw
Ch18 103.91mw
Ch19 107.29mw
Ch20 110.78mw
Ch21 118.09mw
Ch22 121.93mw
Ch23 130.66mw
Ch24 135.60mw
Ch25 151.58mw
Ch26 157.32mw
Ch27 169.45mw
Ch28 182.51mw
Ch29 182.51mw
Ch30 196.58mw
Ch31 196.58mw
Ch32 196.58mw
 
Interesting indeed.. too bad receiving side sunhans doesn't do very good job with those higher freqs. Might be worth a try to mod that same miniamp inside the remote..

I guess this is why fpvlr suggests that no amp needed for video after the airside mod.
 
I'm afraid mini amplifier will overheatwhen not being cooled by props.
I do not think it is necessary to have an amp at the receiver with this mod.
 
So .. Basically just using channel 32 will hypothetically increase our range with video feed ?? Or am I mistaken ?


Sent from my iPhone using PhantomPilots mobile app
 
No. If any of the other channels prior to the "hack" have low/no interference, simply using another channel with low/no interference won't change anything. For most people, channel 20 is pretty isolated. Thus using another channel in the "hack" won't make any difference.


So .. Basically just using channel 32 will hypothetically increase our range with video feed ?? Or am I mistaken ?


Sent from my iPhone using PhantomPilots mobile app
 
No. If any of the other channels prior to the "hack" have low/no interference, simply using another channel with low/no interference won't change anything. For most people, channel 20 is pretty isolated. Thus using another channel in the "hack" won't make any difference.

It will make a difference when transmitting power is much stronger
 
Dav,
What makes you think this isn't true ? Lars showed his tests ? Also I noticed companies selling aftermarket antenna kits have also recommended the higher channels (I'm guessing for the higher transmit power maybe?).

Do you have proof or a reason for thinking Lars' info is incorrect ?


Sent from my iPhone using PhantomPilots mobile app
 
Yes. I have proof. It's called the output power of the transceiver. Being that I have a background in electrical engineering, I don't feel like getting too much into the specifics. But your analogy is akin to saying that iPhones on one cell carrier have a different output than iPhones on a different carrier. The RC dictates the power, not what channel it broadcasts on. It is VERY basic information. Now when you use a specifically tuned booster, that may change things. PERHAPS. But I can promise you that as a stock RC with no amp, your channel has nothing to do with output wattage.

But, like most things in life, there are people who will believe nonsense no matter what, ESPECIALLY if they know nothing about it.


Dav,
What makes you think this isn't true ? Lars showed his tests ? Also I noticed companies selling aftermarket antenna kits have also recommended the higher channels (I'm guessing for the higher transmit power maybe?).

Do you have proof or a reason for thinking Lars' info is incorrect ?


Sent from my iPhone using PhantomPilots mobile app
 

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