9450 Prop warning

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I have a P1 fitted with 9450 DJI props with metal hub. I was going to check balance on the props. My mind must have been somewhere else as I was trying to remove the first prop, I was turning it the wrong way. It was tight so I used my motor wrench still turning the wrong way. It started to turn a bit with higher than normal force. Then it dawned on me I was turning it in the wrong dirlection. I turned it the other way and prop came right off. The hubs must not be splined or keyed as the prop is molded around the hub. The hub will still turn inside the prop if enough force is applied. It's still tight and I feel just fine for flight. Just thought I would mention this. Pay attention.
 
The hubs should have a knurled outside to grip the plastic they are molded into. If you think the hub has come loose from its molding and has turned throw the prop away and use a new one. Never use a damaged prop. They are cheap enough to have a few spares around. I am still using the original props that came with my P2 on my P2, same with P3. The P2 & P3 arms have the direction icon on them... did they not do that with the P1?

The 9450's should give you 20%-25% longer endurance. Remember to increase your gain in the configuration software, this will also improve the performance of the bird, make it more agile and steady in wind.
 
The hubs shosomehow ave a knurled outside to grip the plastic they are molded into. If you think the hub has come loose from its molding and has turned throw the prop away and use a new one. Never use a damaged prop. They are cheap enough to have a few spares around. I am still using the original props that came with my P2 on my P2, same with P3. The P2 & P3 arms have the direction icon on them... did they not do that with the P1?

The 9450's should give you 20%-25% longer endurance. Remember to increase your gain in the configuration software, this will also improve the performance of the bird, make it more agile and steady in wind.
I would have thought the hubs would be keyed to the prop somehow. It feels like a press fit. I just made a 9 minute flight with no problem although I may retire this prop and tear it apart to confirm. I got the 9450 props as recommended by others as I added more weight to my bird. Yes, the P1 props have arrows but as I said I had my mind somewhere else. I'm surprised I even did that.
I have a Walkera aluminum G3D gimbal...just got it...and am using the Multistar 4000 ma battery. I also have an altimeter on it that is very light. So it's not overloaded ....just heavier than stock. The bird seems to fly fine. I have no idea which gains to change if I did. Thanks for the input.
 
Thanks Dirk. I wonder why it doesn't feel gritty if I force it to turn.
No problem and don't know . It looked like it was pushed though and then braded . Not sure but you got me wondering
so I put the fire to one :)
 
...
The 9450's should give you 20%-25% longer endurance. Remember to increase your gain in the configuration software, this will also improve the performance of the bird, make it more agile and steady in wind.

Can we expound on this? I just switched from 9443s to 9450s yesterday.

My P2V Assistant shows six gain boxes. Do we increase all six? And by how much? Thanks!
 
Mark when they came out I started using them and I never changed nothing . Been using them ever since .
Might should have but never saw anyone that did so just left the gains alone .
Not saying it wouldn't help but just what I did :)
 
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Cool - thank you Dirk.
No problem buddy but now see where TJ might have changed his and maybe he will say what he did .
I just never changed nothing but did see an improvement just changing to them .
 
I had a P2 which used them from the get-go so I did not need to do anything to mine, I have only adjusted gains on my P3, the P2 hasn't needed any. The info I gave was gleaned from stuff I read around the net. Apparently with the increased performance, the OEM quad settings can be improved upon. No changes are mandatory but you can squeeze more performance/agility out of it by tweaking them a bit.
 
Here ya go Monte . Had a broke one and melted the plastic off .
View attachment 54957
There ya go... knurling as I suspected. At one time I was a mechanic at a large injection molding shop. Those pieces are molded in when the part is made. You set the hub into the mold and it forms around it. Once it breaks free of the surrounding plastic, the hole it is in is smoothed out so the knurling has nothing to grip.
 

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