Recent content by Ti22

The main bummer for me would be batteries. P3 is more locked down proprietary battery system. I fly FW (fixed wing) model planes and use numerous P1 type battery packs. I’m very accustomed to RC Lipo so I don’t need or care for BMS packs. New users might be better served with current DJI...

80W will be slow. I'm a fan of 200W and above iChargers. Gotta bring your own PS (power supply) but much better chargers than AC/DC powered IMO.

Old tech, this ship has pretty much sailed. As been noted stay away from 5.8Ghz Video TX/RX. These or similar might work -...

Here’s Syma quad sporting the Walkera G2D gimbal and YI camera. Couple places I noticed jitter/shudder but nothing like yours which is almost a constant “hunting” for position. I don’t believe you have a wind problem. Seems like something else. Good luck…

I’m not sure you gotta wind problem? Here’s some video with wind problems - It was blowing very hard that day and in one or two places you can see how severe the P1 tilted just to hover. You can't even hear the prop wash over the wind in most places. In places it starts to jitter/bounce...

I just posted my prop recipe and opinion in another thread. But in short, the heavier your take-off weight, the more aggressive prop for the same FC gains. If you're flying heavy with GoPro, Gimbal, VTX, dual/larger battery, etc., 9450 would probably be about right. If you're flying...

I choose props mostly based on takeoff weight and altitude above sea level (ASL). Heaviest weight (GoPro, gimbal, VTX, dual/triple batteries) I use 9443 and often 9450. That heavy payload above 6000 ASL I generally go to CF (carbon) 9450. That’s about the only place I like how CF’s feel...

I only ran one signal wire from FC to Gimbal. I let battery ground and power handle those connections.

Wrong? Technically no. But unless you’ve gotta reason to hammer the battery into ODDV (over discharge detection voltage) you’ll soon sacrifice significant battery pack life for an extra couple minutes of flight time. 13 minutes from a stock, good condition battery is gonna be very close to...

Do you know how much Ah the battery needs to recharge following your 13 minute flight time? Do you have an idea of the cell voltages after that length of flight? I can assure you, that if you’re flying 13 minutes from 2.2Ah battery pack you’ll need another battery pack soon enough.

Hobby King 3S Turnigy 20C 2.2Ah for me. 7 minutes is my usual "timer" setting for landing before LV red flashes on a burst of power. Now, if you want to add battery capacity, add a single external mount on the rear of the bird. With parallel power cable and couple notches in the stock...

Haven't seen this mentioned but I suggest avoiding GPS mode whenever your close to the ground. Take off or landing the last thing you need is GPS making a location correction when only a few inches off the ground. Such corrections can tilt your aircraft enough to tip over.

Are motors turning in the proper directions? Reversing any 2 phase wires will reverse motor rotation. You may have inadvertently reversed phase wires while installing the new motors and/or ESC's?

I think it’s gonna be pretty duff’d electronically. Motor windings might survive OK but you’ll need to qualify the bearings? Dunno if NazaM is waterproof or not? Dry everything out, wash with denat alcohol and see? Obviously the shell will be ok but this sure sounds like a total loss if...

Maybe a racing quad but no point for Phantom.